91 S-10 Breaks!!! HELP

Now i know my s-10's , i know every thing about them... now im stuck.. i just recently put all new breaks on.. new Front pads, rotors, and LINES. then last night i did the back,, new shoes, hardware, cylinders, and all new LINES. this morning put in a new Master cylinder.. and bleed the breaks about a million times.. and the f*cking pedal still goes to the floor and the break light is on.. im suck in my 91.. help?

Reply to
poontangpie
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readajust the back shoes

po> Now i know my s-10's , i know every thing about them... now im stuck.. i

Reply to
no one

Try the power booster, mine did that before and I replaced everything but the booster.

Reply to
Adam

Power booster failure will cause a HARD pedal d/t lack of vacuum assistance: the exact opposite of what he is describing.

Doc

Reply to
"Doc"

You obviously don't know about them or you wouldn't be here.

My guesses:

  1. Rear shoes set too loose.
  2. Small leak in one of your new brake lines. Flare fittings can be a real bear at times.
  3. Proportioning valve is FUBAR.
  4. Internal leak in new master cylinder or ABS hydraulic unit if equipped
  5. Master Cylinder not bench bled

My question to you is, WHEN did the pedal go all to hell on ya? Before you started, midway thru the work, or after the last step?

Doc

Reply to
"Doc"

Remove the breaks, and install brakes.

Reply to
Rico

yeah DOC! i do know every thing about it,, and i did all that shit,, i bypassed the abs, and ran new lines to the back it had to be bleed more.. DOC!

Reply to
poontangpie

What about the proportioning valve? Is your truck equipped with one?

Doc

Reply to
"Doc"

1.Why did you bypass the ABS? 2.Did you bench bleed the Master Cylinder? 3.Did you let the rears gravity bleed? Charles
Reply to
Charles Bendig

get two long jawed set of vice grips, put some rubber hose over the jaws and crimp off both sets of rear brake lines (the rubber parts of course) to isolate the problem to either the front or back brakes.

Now try the brakes and see if the pedal is better

Reply to
ken

or just unscrew the brake lines at the master cylinder and put two finishing nails in the end of the connector, put them back on and the will cut the rears completely off. Just make sure to remove the nails before you drive it.

Reply to
Adam

I dont reccomend anyone doing this for an extended period of time, I was just on the side of a country road in the middle of BFE and had to rig it to get me to town.

Reply to
Adam

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