Right off I'd like to thank you for all the help you are always so willing
to give here.
Curious about the rear axle ( gear ratio) statement from the above. Never
saw that as a requirement for a clutch fan. I understand the engine turns
more revolutions per mile driven, but how does that change the fan clutch
They usually come in two versions for GM trucks 3.42 and numerically lower,
3.73 and numerically higher. Basically a fan clutch is gunna kick off at a
certain rotational speed as at that point the truck is moving fast enough
that the fan isn't doing much anyways.
Trucks with 4.10's require a higher RPM cutoff as they are moving much
slower at a given RPM than a truck with 2.73's. So, if you were to get the
wrong fan you might see it staying engaged too long or not long enough given
Ya know, I just did a parts lookup and that doesn't apply to his model year.
I believe it was in 95' they switched over to fan clutches that weren't
partial to rear-end ratios.
Can you confirm something else fan related? Someone told me on cars and
trucks with electric AC condenser fans, the fan shuts off at some preset
MPH. Is that true?
most of the cars I've dealt with in the past
which had electric fans worked this way.
with the A/C off the fan comes on purely by temp.
once the A/C is engaged the fans either run continiously
or they run when the compressor is engaged. Never
heard anything regarding a fan that cuts off based on
In general electric radiator fans are controlled by two factors.
engine temp and / or if the A/C is on or off.
I have a 92K1500 with a 350 and I put a HD GM fan clutch on it
some time ago. The parts book I looked at only offered two models
for the 92K1500 one was a "regual" version and the other was a HD
version ( i assumed HD meant heavy duty).. I bought the HD version
and it works fine. I does engage and you will hear some air flow
across the radiator but I guess thats just by design.
remove the ** to email
Well, I have no idea what you all are talking about. I just went to the
auto parts store and asked them. They did ask me if it had A/C and it does
so I told them yes. Then they gave me the part. A friend of mine has an 85
K10 Blazer that he put a Vortec 350 in (just like mine). He went to
replace the fan clutch and his makes the same noise!
I think that it would be alot easier to get an electric fan.
Does anyone have a dual electric fan for sale that is under $150?
Not, not good enough. CFM=cubic feet per minute, how much air the fan is
physically moving. You want at least 4600 CFM's. The ones they sell at
Advance for $189 pull 1600 CFM's IIRC.
My advice to you, if the fan is noisy it means it working, and it will be
quieter in the cooler months. Just leave er' be.
Ya know what Bret, mine's been doing the same damn thing ever since I
switched from R-12 to 134a. The condensor gets much hotter with 134 than it
did with 12. In my case, flush and fill, new fan clutch and t-stat didn't
I'm actually looking into a HD 4-row radiator to bleed off the execc heat
is't getting from the condensor.
Retrofit r134A conversion condenser my friend!
Maybe one from a later year will fit right in there, without any
www.karkool.com speak to Guy.
They're where I get all my stuff from, 30% below jobber. Technical help all
you need. National distributor for: AC/Delco Motorcrap, Mopar, Nippon,
Nipponseiki, and all the other foreign shit you can ever imagine!
yeah, mine never did it with R12 either.... I'm going to take a drive
down to the local yard and see if I can find a HD radiator out of a
454 truck...though I'm not sure it's any different than the HD cooling
group my truck came stock with... I don't have the $$ for a AL
radiator right now.
but for now I'm going to go pick up a fin comb and F&F the rad as it's
due for it anyways... maybe it'll help.
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