Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer?

I haven't seen any car quests that I can think of right now, but I'll check.

Thanks, Hatt

Reply to
DJ Hatt
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Thanks, I looked here pretty hard online, no go.

Hatt

Reply to
DJ Hatt

I usually just use the generic solder from Radio Shack (64-004 which is standard 60/40 solder for electronics) and a 100 watt gun from wal mart (will be cheaper at wm). Slip over one of the wires a piece of shrink tubing (also from Radio Shack) then twist the wires together. Carefully heat the bare ends with the tip of the soldering gun while touching the wire with the solder. When the wires get hot enough they will melt the solder and the solder will wick into the wire. When both wires are coated with lead just let cool and the straighten out; then cover with the shrink tubing. Use a lighter to carefully heat the shrink tubing and you are done. If you don't want to use the shrink tubing then just carefully wrap them with electrical tape, which will work fine and will not be dangerous with having an open flame near gasoline.....

good luck, mark

Reply to
rock_doctor

I can't expound on the sales or service end of the dealership but I have to say I was impressed with the parts guys. Holman GMC is where I've bought both of my trucks and I couldn't be happier with the service dept or the sales dept. Too bad they are an hour (each way) for us west siders. I can tell you that I went to Sweeney GMC in Queensgate for my sticking throttle body and was not at all happy with their work.

Joshua

Reply to
Joshua Phillips

For splices I use radio shack solder rosin core and shrink tubing heated with a light bulb. Nice finish with no burns. If you want a water proof splice connection use a 3M coating liquids tape (looks like pliobond) along with scotch 33 tape it will never let water in. I have repaired underground wiring with this use it on my boat trailer with great success. Available at Lowes Home Improvement company. Tip make sure the lid is closed tight before you put in your tool bucket and before it gets to leaking out :-( @#%$&^$&#++

Reply to
Larry and a cat named Dub

Joshua,

The way I see it, they are basically all the same and need to be monitored and checked up on after the job. It's a time vs. money thing and just get 'em in and out. Of course the person that doesn't know they are looking at an OIL filler cap and NOT a 710 filler cap is at their mercy! These are the reasons I do 99% of my own mechanical work unless it is under warranty, recall or just more than I have the tools, time or capability to handle.

Kev> > Hmmmm, the same shop that put the wrong speaker in my Yukon when it > > died.....

Reply to
Kevin

======================== ==============================

Re: Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer? Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Wed, Jun 25, 2003, 11:33am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@nunya.com (Kevin)

Joshua,

The way I see it, they are basically all the same and need to be monitored and checked up on after the job. It's a time vs. money thing and just get 'em in and out. Of course the person that doesn't know they are looking at an OIL filler cap and NOT a 710 filler cap is at their mercy! These are the reasons

I DO 99% OF MY OWN MECHANICAL WORK...........

unless it is under warranty, recall

or just more

than I have the tools,

time or

capability to handle.

Kevin ==================================

you may want to reword that........

not counting the warranty and recall....

those last 3 disclaimers kinda knocks the shit out of your 99% don't it?

..gibson6string.. is in the biz...and still doesn't do 99% of his own mechanical work.. ==================================

Reply to
Guitar Boogie

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer? Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2003, 3:19pm From: snipped-for-privacy@nowheres-ville.com (DJ=A0Hatt) I can't find a TPS connector at any of the part stores. They tell me I have to go to a dealer for it. I'd like to avoid this,

so does anyone know where to buy parts like this online?

Hatt

----------------------------------------------------- yes....i know where.........

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Reply to
Guitar Boogie

shrink

Carefully

shrink

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the info. I managed to solder a couple of connections this afternoon. Didn't look at the wattage of the soldering iron, its one of those straight ones but it sure took a long time to get the wire heated enough to solder, but I got it done.

I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why.

Hatt

Reply to
DJ Hatt

Honestly, it doesn't make much of a difference at all. Why would the factory use crimp-on connectors(all the molex/weatherpak plugs)? People will probably respond with answers 180degrees of my opinion. Well, that's the way it goes.

Butt connectors and other solderless connectors has received a bad rap because more than half of the population out there that uses tham can't find their asses with both hands. As a consequence, they're unsealed(no shrink tube), poorly crimped on(improper tools), have a tendency to ruin wires(too much crimp!), fall off, rot away...Etc. Etc.

If the right person is doing the job, a solderless connector serves the same purpose and does almost as good of a job as soldering without the PITA that soldering in an engine compartment can be. There's nothing worse, IMO, than trying to position things just right in an engine compartment with the wind blowing and cooling off your wires, Etc. BTDT, didn't even get the shirt.

Sam

Reply to
GaWd

This is key. Problem is, butt connectors are cheap, proper crimping tools are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00 crimping tool.

True, at first anyway, until oxidation begins to work on the wires and connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. This doesn't happen with a soldered joint. This is why the supplier who makes our harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors.

I'm not familiar with an airliner's wiring system, but I seriously doubt that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If there were, that would explain a few things. :(

Dave

Reply to
Dave Brower

$ 120 ????

you must buy from the snap-on guy

a good crimper (IDEAL brand) can be had at any electrical supply warehouse for under 30 bucks

not if properly crimped. the wire will corrode in two before the joint goes bad

I've seen more than enough 'soldered' joints that had far more resistance than a properly crimped connection, thank you

so I take it that you're not familiar with WHEN and WHY the crimp terminal was invented ?

WW-2, it was invented to have to keep from SOLDERING all the connections on fighters and bombers

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer

Since there is very little current flowing in the TPS circuit, resistance could actually be up to several tens of ohms without being a problem

OK, that sounds reasonable, I've always used 0.50 as a standard, but whatever the booksays............

as I said above, the amount of current flowing in that circuit is very, very small.....the ECM is supplying 5V to the 'top' of the TPS, 'bottom' is ground potential, and the 'wiper' or variable terminal feeds a voltage back to the ECM

since most sensor inputs show a very high (25,000 ohms or greater) 'input impedance', any resistance up to 100 or so ohms anywhere in the TPS feed or return circuit would make very little difference

resistance in the GROUND side could conceivably raise the minimum past acceptable levels, however.

without trying to sound 'preachy', I'd suggest you find a good text on basic DC circuits and go thru it...........you need to bone up on the basics of voltage, current, and resistance, which will make understanding all your above questions pretty simple.

try the public library, 'The Radio Amateur's Handbook', the late 50's to early 70's editions had a really good chapter on 'Basic Electrical Circuits' (the armed forces used this part of the Handbook as basic training material for all radio operators and repairmen during WW-2)

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer

understanding,

I guess it depends on your definition of *good*. We use PACKARD brand which are available from about $40 on up to as much as you can afford. $120.00 is the low end of the *good* crimpers that make four indentations with one stroke. (like a factory crimp). Even these are not good enough for our engineers who insist that we solder ALL butt joints and terminals that we replace.

The wire will corrode IN the joint. Dissimilar metals.

So have I, but a well soldered joint is still better than one that is not. IMO

Nope. But thanks for the information.

So you're saying that they build todays airliners' wiring systems using

1940s technology? During the war, I doubt that they expected those fighters and bombers to have a very long life span. Most of us hope our vehicles( and airliners ) will last longer than that.

Gary, I'm not trying to start a fight here, but I do firmly believe that soldered is better than solder-less (even though solder-less is quicker and easier). Dave

Reply to
Dave Brower

terminations,

I agree, there are times when soldering isn't practical. In those cases I had to replace the entire harness. I'll bet your customers would love that. :0 BTW, I have a Weller butane fired soldering iron that is the cat's meow for

12ga and smaller, where igniting gasoline wouldn't be an issue. Handy as hell.

Dave

Reply to
Dave Brower

Gary,

I have a Weller made in the 70's. It's like a direct feed very high amperage iron. Ridiculous amounts of heat(I have a nasty scar compliments of a careless stepfather and a few beers in us).

Anywho, after you set everything up, and get prepared and positioned, and solder it, you could be done already using a solderless connector and some shrink-tubing. Don't get me wrong-soldering is the best way to do it, but you can do the same quality job with crimp connectors-we're only talking about 12V systems here, and if you're careful and know what you're doing you won't run into trouble.

Sam

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Reply to
GaWd

P.S.- Just looked at that link and I gotta say I hate solder guns. My last weller was such a POS, never could heat worth a shit.

My weller solder station(cheapie, $30 from MCM) with variable heat is the best Iron I've ever owned. I also like my Weller portasol butane unit, though it can be a touch finnicky.

Sam

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Reply to
GaWd

DJ, I agree with Gary. I think you need to do a quick read on "Ohm's law". It is the basis for the relationship between Voltage, Resistance and Amperage(and much more, really).

Sam

P.S.- Just crimp the sucker :-]

Reply to
GaWd

Dave, it's interesting that you mention dissimilar metals as a source of corrosion. I'll grant you that, but if you're soldering on a terminal to a piece of wire...you're still using dissimilar metals-you have the solder, the copper or steel wire, and then you have the terminal which are mostly aluminum or steel.

Like Gary and I both said, if they were such a bad thing, automakers, jet makers and makers in EVERY inductry wouldn't use them, and they all do.

If the right person is doing it, with the right tools, then there will never be a problem with going solderless, and solder in lots of automotive cases is serious overkill.

Reply to
GaWd

resistance

voltage back

basics of

Thanks again for the info.

Hatt

Reply to
DJ Hatt

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