I just got an oil change on my 2000 Silverado 4x4 and as always Goodyear
says it needs something: an axle seal going into my wheel. They say it
leaks and will cost $100 to fix.
A second independent mechanic says it would be around $750-800 at the
Chevy dealer BUT: it is normal to lose some fluid in small amounts. My
truck has 120k on it. He said that if the lubricant is not showing up
where I park that he would not worry about it.
I took a look under the truck where the axle meets the wheel and see no
Any pointers guys? I am inclined to doubt Goodyear since I keep getting
all kinds of warnings from them on every vehicle I take in there for an
On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 22:04:19 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org (Ron Truitt)
Tell 'em that you will take your truck to the Dealer for service and
if they they'll you that there is nothing amiss then the Dealer will
be doing the oil changes too and THEN see what they say.
Goodyear (badyear) told my wife she had an electrical problem with her
brakelights. I had just inspected the lights all around before she left.
Nothing was wrong. Everything on the inspection list was fine before she
left. They told her she had to pay the service fee, but the inspection was
extra. I found a wire disconnected at the brakelight . It wasn't even loose
when she left. I went back with the car and demanded they apply the fee
toward the inspection and to put the sticker on or I would bring in state
officials AND the news media.
The sticker was applied for the difference.
I would not take a vehicle to a place the manager gets a commission from
"The Nolalu Barn Owl"
wrote in message (Ron Truitt)
The other time I went to goodyear(badyear) to get a set of tire installed on
my cherokee. After getting tired of sitting and waiting, I walked around to
peek in on the progress. What I found infuriated me beyond normal self
control. The hood was up and three monkeys were looking under the hood while
my tires sat on the ground. I told them there were no tires under the hood
and to shut it right damn now. They said it was a courtesy check and my belt
needed replacing. You could still read goodyear on the belt I had replaced
the week before myself.
I later got a check from goodyear from a class action lawsuit for
overcharges to all their customers.
I haven't and won't put my vehicle in a goodyear shop even for tires now or
ever in the future.
with BFG Longtrails
"The Nolalu Barn Owl"
wrote in message (Ron Truitt)
I had Goodyear align the front end of a 1982 F150 pickup years ago. This is
right after I bought it used and I had them install new tires. Well it drove
OK but the tires started wearing in a month on he edges. I jacked it up and
the lower ball joints were worn badly. I went back to them pissed that they
aligned it with bad ball joints. They claimed that they must have gone bad
in the last month. They wouldn't pay for the new front tires or another
Fact is the truck was only driven on smooth roads and the tires that were
taken off the truck just after I bought it were worn the same. So the ball
joints weren't inspected prior to alignment. I've never spent another penny
at a Goodyear since.
Pull the wheel and inspect it yourself. If you have rear discs you
would not even have to pull the wheel. Just crawl under the vehicle and
look for oil leakage between the end of the axle tube and the backing
plate. On drums it will leak there too but you need to get the drum off
and look inside to see if it is really leaking where it would
contaminate the brakes. If it is only a seep I would not bother.
Goodyear, Midas and the like are in it to make money and to keep
litigation down. So, if they say it needs to be replaced they are
leaning towards the conservative side. First they want the money and
second if something happens down the road they do not want someone
coming back to them with legal action due to them not correcting a problem.
Ron Truitt wrote:
There is nothing to it, put the axel on jackstands and pull the wheels and
drums, take the diff cover off, pull the bolt and gears and such out, push
in the axels to pop off the c clips and slide the axels out and replace the
seal. First time I ever replaced them on my 88 it took longer though
because I dropped a c clip into the pan I drained the gear oil into so I
had to dig through it to find the c clip :)
Oh how I don't miss those frequent forreys into the black goo at the bottom
of a pan. Tool are magnetically attracted to the stuff. I could drop a
socket on one side of the shop, and after 3 or miraculous richochets it
always finds that bucket/pan of oil. Never fails, especially if the oil is
really nasty, and hot. Magnents are nice, but not always handy (though I
have learned! and now they are ALWAYS handy).
I wouldn't trust this "independent" mechanic at all. It won't
cost that much to do axle seals at a dealership. And it is
"not" normal to lose some fluid in small amounts. But the
time an axle seal is leaking on the ground....it's a fairly bad
You must be ready for this type of thing no matter where you take
your vehicle. Most mechanics are trained to look for other items
that a vehicle might need even when just doing an oil change. There
isn't anything wrong with this...unless someone is attempting to sell
items that don't really need to be done. All customers are different,
you have the ones that "just want the oil change" done...and would
almost prefer that you don't look at anything else. Then there are
the other customers who would be quite upset if you didn't notice
something that was going "south" on their vehicle...they expect you
to find these things and advise them about it. We even get the
customers that believe that we have crystal balls, or are prescient
and can tell them the future of their cars repair needs.
If you don't have a good personal relationship with the place
that you are dealing with....always err on the side of caution. Of
course the trick is to find someone who is honest and capable,
and then stick with them.
You can let it go but eventually it will need to be repaired. In the
meantime, you run the risk of ruining the brake lining (drum brakes
only). The dealer did both sides on my 1990 Suburban (rear axle) for
$200 but that was over a year ago. I just don't trust the guys at
Goodyear, Firestone, etc. Rich B
There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor
traffic - the quick and the dead.
~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~
Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great
equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~
When the axle seal leaks bad enough to contaminate the shoes/pads.....
then it is time to replace.
Even a brand new or rebuilt axle housing will weep a little fluid past the
When it's time to replace the seal and if you have a c-clip type axle
retainer then it's
more cost effetive to replace both axle seals since you have to partially
the rear differential and remove the cross-pin to gain access to the c-clips
that retain the axles.
I used to work for them years ago and a foreign job came in with a external
oil pump/filter combo..... after diagnosing a leaking oil filter and
reporting to the manager he told me to sell the customer a oil pump, he
doesn't need a oil pump boss....he needs a filter.....
you're not going to work out here very well.....ya got that shit
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