Kill rust on Chevy

POR-15 works great and can be sprayed on thru a paint gun with the proper solvent. Other than than, sanding it down and hitting it with some rust-arresting chemical then priming it would do the trick as well.

Doc

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"Doc"
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Reply to
sidewinder

Reply to
Mark G.

The paint comes off of early 90's chevy's cause the EPA forced the removal of lead from the primer mixture because it was considered hazardous; Shitty primer = bad paint adhesion (or so i think; I could be wrong, i am a man after all)

TB

Reply to
Trailblazer

Reply to
jdoe

it wasn't just GM's that had this problem.... the big 3 all had paint adhesion problems in the late 80's early 90's. IIRC, it wasn't lead removal, as I think that was banned back in like '78 or so in all but industrial apps (bridge paint for example) I think it was a forced reduction in VOC's that did it.. the EPA did it to asphalt shingle manufacturors about 5 years previous to the auto makers. man didn't those shingles suck..

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

Does anyone know of a good spray type of thing that will take away and freeze rust in it's tracks? Maybe some 3M product or something? Have a couple of places to tend to that aren't real bad, but need to be dealt with. Thanks.

Reply to
Mark G.

Boes shield is another oil film product that may work as well.

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

"extend" dries to a black film and works pretty decent

Reply to
alasatian

There's some stuff called "Navel Jelly" that you can get at just about any hardware store. It's supposed to disolve the rust so that you can prime/repaint. I think it's only good for those little spots of surface rust though. I've you've got extensive rusting, it may not work real well.

-NW

Reply to
NetWeasel

Navel Jelly contains hydrochloric acid, so its only good for exposed surfaces, NOT inside doors and such that cant be washed out.

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

Oil coats the steel surfaces and displaces the water (like the use of wd-40 in the old point type distributors for you water waders and mud boggers who remember this)...problem with this solution is that the oil should be reapplied every so often, it shouldn't be used in exposed visible surfaces because it'll look like hell as explained earlier (oil/grease attracts the dirt) or places where you think you're going to do some repairs/upgrades in the near future (people attract oil/grease/dirt and you'll look like hell as well as it being a pain in the butt to work with greasy/oily anything), and more importantly it isn't really good for the enviornment due to the fact that even if oil and water don't mix, water does carry the oil away. Marine boaters have been doing this forever on their boat trailers and trucks - grease over everything that might go into the water: trailer, rims, axles, leaf springs bumpers, tow hitch...

Reply to
Kawika

surfaces, NOT inside doors and

Naval jelly has phosphoric acid, not hydrochloric acid in it. (I'm looking at my bottle of Permatex Naval Jelly)

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

Mark, Yep..... POR15's the way to go.

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It's a little more work but well worth it. There are also electronic devices that can be installed on your vehicle to prevent further rusting.
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Reply to
Rebel48

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