Re: Questions-350cid 88K1500

My truck's being a POS lately. I have no leads to go on at this point, but

> to throw parts at it and see how she responds. No codes. > > K-Here's the symptoms. > > -poor/varying mileage. Some tanks it's 10mpg, sometimes it's 6, other times > it's been as high as about 15 > > -throttle response issues. slow to react to the foot. > > -rich exhaust smell. > > -Today after parking her for a minute, when I cam out and started her up, > and took off, she stalled. Still no codes. > > -Yesterday while warming her up in the afternoon, there was a pretty big > stumble in idle. No code for that either. > > > I haven't thrown parts at it just yet. I'm pretty sure it's time for a new > ICM and coil pack. It's probably time for a new CTS, and MAP/BARO sensor as > well. > > Where should I go with this? > > Thanks. > > Sam >

P.S.- The wires are 1000 mi old Delco 8.5mm wires, so it's at least not that part of the ignition.

Reply to
GaWd
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To a mechanic. It would be cheaper than throwing parts at it.

Reply to
steelwheel

Gawd; For starters, pull the aircleaner and look down the tbi throat to see if the fuel is puddling up on the butterflies. Try to see the spray pattern, one of the injectors might be dirty or stuck open. Make sure all of the vacuum lines are solid and in place. Reach in and see if you can wiggle the tps. It should be nice and tight. Using a thin screwdriver, move the tps lever from the idle position. If you get no change in idle condition the tps could have failed sending a partial open signal to the computer. There has been lot of heat under that 15 year old hood and the tps connector is not the most robust I have seen. Mine came apart and crumbled in my hands when I was chasing a similar problem on my 87 K5. A new connector and tps solved the problem. Also a bottle of Techron every

2-3 months helps a lot. Another thought; I have had the O2 sensor go bad without throwing a code. This can make the truck run rich as well. Just some ideas. Good Luck, JR
Reply to
JR

"GaWd" wrote

Please keep us informed about what parts you install and when the problem actually gets fixed. It will be interesting to see when and if you get lucky throwing parts at it.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Smart move Sam, ask for help and then insult most of those capable of actually helping. It seems you didn't learn much from your last ordeal with the cylinder heads. As I remember you were pretty happy to have some "wrench monkey" finish the project that YOU started but were unable to finish. Bob

Reply to
Bob

You must be one of those high-priced wrnech monkeys. Sorry if your feelings are hurt by that.

You're right, I didn't know enough about my truck to properly adjust the valves, I'm guilty as charged.

Now, in this case, the wrench, no matter who he is, will most likely just throw the same parts at my truck that I will, except I can get a lower price and my labor doesn't cost $100 an hour.

Cheers Bob!

Sam

Reply to
GaWd

As I remember you were very happy when your local "wrench monkey" put your truck back together. I also don't remember any pissing and moaning about what he charged. It seems to me like he did what you couldn't, even though several people here gave you detailed instructions of what to do. So why is it you have such a low opinion of repair techs? Maybe a better question would be this.... If the local parts swapping monkeys are making $100/hour and you are capable of doing just as good of a job as they are why not just open a shop? $100/hour shop rate and a healthy markup on parts.... think about it. On the other hand if you don't have a clue what you are doing you will quickly go broke. Bob

Reply to
Bob

Bob, being happy about him geting it running(just a valve adjustment), and being happy as shit that he decided to R&R the intake and charge me $1K to do it are two separate things. I'd almost feel good about paying for the R&R if he had actually REMOVED the f-in intake instead of just unbolting things, lifting it up and inserting new gaskets(even though I installed it properly).

$1K for the intake? Christ, I've done it with more than one V-8 in an hours or two!

So, for the third time, for me to go to a local mechanic and have him charge me $100/hr. to throw the same parts at it is ludicrous.

Sam

Reply to
GaWd

You always were an asshole. Good to see nothing has changed!

Cheers.

Reply to
GaWd

"GaWd" wrote

Why? Because I'm still here and your buddy Dean isn't?

Please keep us up to date on your parts hanging exploits. At least you can be a source of entertainment, if not actual knowledge.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

"GaWd"

I said nothing about you taking it to a shop. I'm waiting to see the results of your part hanging. You never know, you might get lucky and fix it with one component. Which will mean nothing, but that you got lucky.

The only person I see riding a high horse is you and your negative comments about technicians. And then you are the first one to be looking for help and advice.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Ian knows more about your truck than you could ever hope too!! The problem is that you aren't smart enough to take advantage of that. Hang parts on that bitch 'till you run out of money! LOL!!! Bob

Reply to
Bob

Hey, I didn't think you and Bob would be so sensitive about being called Parts-monkies.

I didn't get negative about techs until you and Bob started having serious attitude problems.

Reply to
GaWd

I'm a clueless f*ck because I think you and Ian are being pricks? Fuck off, Bob.

Reply to
GaWd

My buddy Dean? I think I had as much of a problem with him as you did...think back a year Ian, really hard...

Reply to
GaWd

Jeez I watched the race and missed all of the fun! I think JR was headed in the right direction with the tbi unit. These units do develop internal leaks over time, and a rebuild is inexpensive and takes about two hours. Tomco has kits available which provides new seals and a new pressure regulator, if memory serves. You'll need a can of Gumout carb and choke cleaner, a razor blade scraper or a single edge razor will do, in order to clean up the mating surfaces, and a brass bristle brush, toothbrush size to clean up the casting without scratching it. A set of line wrenches will help since you'll need to disconnect the feed and return lines at the unit in order to facilitate removal, and a inexpensice torx head bit set for dissasembly. Been some time since I did one of these, but quite basic. Let us know what you decide to do. Oh by the way, where is the $100/hr. shop?

Have a great one!

Bush

Reply to
Bush

Correct.

Reply to
steelwheel

Congrats, you're a dick, too.

Reply to
GaWd

And you're a top-posting moron with a broke truck.

Reply to
steelwheel

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