wel guys..I am stumped!

appreciated.

Think I sent this before, but: Try this. Turn the key to on, wait about 5 seconds and turn it off. Then do it again and then try to start it.

Let us know what happens.

Al

Can't swear to this, but I do not think the oil pressure sender can cause this. I have heard it can, but I'm not convinced. Would be easy to check on a "like" truck. Just pull the connector off and see if it starts.

Al

When it does not start are plugs wet with gas? Also you might try starting it with a bit of starting fluid one time to see if it will fire up and tell you if you have a fuel or ignition issue in those cold temps. Check timing too and try about 4BTDC or more as that helps it light in extreme cold. When you use starting fluid, have someone start to crank engine with throttle depressed a bit and shoot short bursts into intake as it cranks. Do not start spraying until it is rolling over and do not just spray full bore either. See if it starts and how it runs and then we can go from there. You might add a bottle or two of dry gas to tank to as it prevents ice crystals from forming in extreme cold as fuel sprays in that can cause problems when humidity is high and engine is cold. When I lived in extreme cold, I always added a bottle of dry gas llike clock work with every fill up. (I have seen it 50 below) Another thing, install a block heater as it will male a world of difference starting on those really cold days and easy strain on engine and warm up quicker too. I used to plug mine in when it was below zero, not because it needed it to start but it made starting so much easier and engine was not stiff rolling over. It is not hard to install one. GM makes a brass one that replaces a freeze plug.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

yes , half the plugs are flooded wet. Today i plugged in the truck and decided not to piss with it..it fired up after 20 cranks, no smoke whatsoever. I undid the fuel lines and am going to put the new tank under the truck that has the brand new pump/sender.. I am going to fire it up tomorrow with the tank lyin on the ground and see what happens.. I think the fuel pump is starting to go.. I decided also to replace all the lines from front to back with a new filter.. hell I might as well while I am down there..I'll post what happens tomorrow when it is 30 below .. I am plugging it in which yes is better.. but that shouldn't make it crank so much before starting when it is warm as well as cold. I'll check the timing also.. 4 seems decent as it is at almost 2 right now.. My plugs say R44TS the motor is a 1989 350 TBI rebuilt so is this the right plug ?.. If this doesn't fix the problem.. I have a 2000 GMC 5.3 motor with soon to be carb converted

I think it is your ignition module's low RPM mode.

I CAN'T REMEMBER THE DETAILS....but there is a breakover speed as to where timing advance is controlled. below 400? rpm and coolant under 160F the module controls advance .....over 400 ??and?? coolant temp over 160 advance controlled by PCM.

I think you need a new module.

The fuel pump staying on is caused by burned contacts on the fuel pump relay because you've been cranking the damn thing so much. The relay gets hot and sticks...then a while after the key is off it lets go. I think you also need a new fuel pump relay.

If anyone disagrees....let's hear it. We are all open to credible suggestions.

skimmer