There you go, BASF make it in Europe.
In fact Glysantin an organic acid technology additive licensed to many
coolant brands such as Mobil. These coolants meet the standards as laid down
by various motor manufacturers.
They are not compatible with green/blue/purple or pink coolants though. OAT
coolants are red or orange in colour. You can mix brands no problem but do
not mix red/orange coolants with the more common conventional SCA glycol
My 100,000 mile 8 year old Land Cruiser was factory filled with organic acid
tech glycol coolant [Toyota Forlife] and it is still good. I do intend to
change it soon though.
Is the Mobil version not available in the US?
Stick "borate free coolant" or "organic acid coolant" into Google and see
how many brands make equivilent coolants. Any of these can substitute the
BMW product. Nothing critically unique and essential in a particular brand
for BMW, just the type. You can identify the type by the colour.
"cheap insurance" must be imprinted into American brains while they sleep at
night in a form of acute brainwashing :-)
Then again, I plan on using
Just remember that if red or orange coolant was previously used then a
couple of flushes with clean water and ideally with a flushing buffer
chemical is recommended before refilling with a different *type* of coolant
such as the common blue or green.
My Range Rover has only done 20,000 miles and I will consider changing the
GM box's fluid at 100,000. I have just changed the Land Cruisers
transmission fluid for the second time with Dexron ATF at 100,000 miles.
Changes like new. No better, no worse.
Also changed the tranfer box and both axles for the second time and the
brake fluid for the third time so let it not be said that I do not believe
in appropriate vehicle maintenance.
Yes, BASF, Valvoline, doesn't matter... same stuff.
Wrong. Glysantin G 48 is not an OAT coolant and it is blue in color. G
lysantin G 30 is an OAT coolant and is red. BMW coolant is G 48 (blue).
I have never seen any recomendation to use G 30 (or any other OAT
coolant for that matter) in any BMW, ever.
No. You are dead wrong. You should not be using OAT coolants in a BMW.
Here in the US there are a lot of brands of OAT coolants (orange
mostly) and a lot of the green crap. It is a lot harder to find the
correct (blue) coolant in stores.
That's typical. Can't make your point without dragging out
anti-American sentiment. If it's cheap insurance in the US, it's
probably cheap insurance anywhere else.
SAAB branded coolant is G 48, same exact stuff from the same exact
factories as BMW brand coolant. Blue coolant is not common. It is G 48
which is not anything like the truly commmon green crap.
Apparently it is a hybrid OAT coolant which has a slightly different
chemistry but is miscible as far as I can tell. The colour is not an
infallible guide to type. Some OAT coolants vary in colour, for instance
Honda sometimes use an OAT coolant that is dark green.
Well I have just gone out with a torch to check on what is in my year old
BMW engine and it is red.
Approved coolants according to my car manual for both diesel and petrol BMW
engines of all sizes are listed as
Aral Antifreeze Extra
Glysantin Protect Plus/G48
Mobil Frostshutz 600
Havolene AFC (BD04)
Motul Inugel Expert
Veedol Antifreeze NF
BP anti-frost X2270A or BP Napgel C2270-1
Esso Antifreeze Extra
Total Elf Glacelf MDX
Texaco Havolene HELAC extended life coolant or TELC
Plenty of choice there for you. I have not checked but it may be that some
of those are OAT coolants but most are Hybrid OAT. Certainly I can find no
evidence that the G48 coolant is much different to the newer OAT coolants
except that in addition to being nitrite, amine, phosphate and borate free,
OAT is also silicate free but really who cares. The fact is that all those
coolants are approved not just BMW and Valvolene as you thought. There are
probably many other suitable coolants available where you are.
Like I said, mine was factory filled with bright red fluid. I checked. Check
yours, it might be blue or red perhaps.
You are paranoid as well as hypocritical. Elswhere in this topic you
complain of the price of a small quantity of oil. Some 4.5 litres more than
needed for your service. You certainly don't seem to think that it is cheap
Like I said, my BMW is filled with red, probably Castrol which is the
sponsored recommendation. There is a list above of approved coolants which I
suspect is far from comprehensive or complete but is accurate.
<Changing the final drive lubricant helped smooth gear changing? Do
tell how... ;-) >
Opps, meant to say changing MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID with Royal Purple
made by car shift nice and smooth. However, since my car also has a
limited-slip differential, changing the differential fluid made the car
rear wheels spin "easier" too (or least that's what it feels like).....
Dammit. Sussed out again...
But I'll throw this in. Draining your battery, flushing through with
distilled water and replenishing with new electrolyte at about 3 years old
is likely to extend its life. Does anyone bother?
*I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
Well I just checked and the factory fill in mine is red and I list the
approved coolants printed in my book for BMW engines. It appears to be a bit
more comprehensive than you have printed in your handbooks.
You appear very naive. They have recommend Castrol oil for a long time but
that does not mean that Castrol is the only blender to produce a suitable
Well, after a couple years BMW decided that a 100K change interval (vice
lifetime) was correct. The coolant didn't change but went from 2 years to
4. The oil has been on the lights for some time (its probably fine if you
don't expect a 250,000+ mile engine). BMW doesn't directly address Diff or
Man Trans lubes, but common sense (and the fact they have no lifetime
warrantee) would dictate change at practical intervals (I do it in
conjunction with Insp 1 & 2, about every 32-33,000 miles).
R / John
Yes they may well have. The cars now last a very long time without failure
if you are lucky and many more hit 200k+ miles in a short period of time
than used to be the case. A transmission oil change at 100,000 miles is
hardly a hardship for most people so it may as well be done. For those who
wish to do it themselves there are instructions on the net on how to drain
and refill these gearboxes. I know that some US BMW's use GM transmissions
rather than the ZF fitted in the UK but the same priciples apply, just check
that there are no important small details of difference in the practical
maintenance, like the amount of oil you should add.
You may be interested to know that my Range Rover is fitted with the BMW
diesel mated with a GM5 transmission. The V8 models are matched with the ZF.
The coolant didn't change but went from
Why not? A mate had an Audi Allroad which he serviced every 20,000 miles and
it ran sweet as a nut with no sign of wear at 200,000 miles.
BMW doesn't directly
I'm sure you feel much the better for it.
I would maybe change the diff oil once at 100,000 miles because it would
make *me* feel better :-)
I have seen the directions that are an excerpt from an official BMW
service note on checking level.
It shows a drain and a fill hole (on at least these older models). I
would like to do a partial drain and refill as a preventive on my 115k
mile 540iA trans (ZF model A5S 560Z), but I cannot find the fluid for
Here is a nice chart for these older transmissions:
Mine is supposed to use Shell LA 2634. BMW part number is 83 22 9 407
765 which is "conveniently" packaged in 5 liter bottles. Convenient
because a fluid change without torque converter takes 5.5 liters...
Suitable fluid would be Mobil1 synthetic ATF. It will not be commonplace on
store shelves but should be available to order if you can find someone who
can be bothered to do so.
As indeed should the fluids from Shell and Esso etc. Best place to order
these would be at a specialist oil distributor who should be more
co-operative. OTOH why not just order two jugs from your BMW spares outlet.
You may find that 5 litres is enough. OTOH if you have to jump through hoops
to order it then buy 10 litres and accept that as the cost of the fluid
...and you base this recomendation on what? I have been unable to find
any direct evidence from either BMW or the transmission manufacturer
(ZF) that any fluid is acceptable to use in these transmissions except
Shell LA 2634. Some of the synthetic ATF manufacturers claim their
juice is good for applications calling for LA 2634, but do not go as far
to state that they are compatable with it. So if doing a partial
drain/refill (which is what you are doing when you do a standard
transmission filter /service since the fluid remains in the TC) you
would be mixng fluids of unknown compatability.
Why? I already told you , this stuff is like liquid gold...
AFAIK any lifetime fluid such as sold by any of the major brands are
compatible. There are very few transmissions that require such fluid. ZF, GM
and Mercedes are the only ones that are common.
Just did a search and it seems Texaco also has a suitable fluid.
If you are not confident that these will be adequate, don't use them. It's
as simple as that. Go to your Shell or BMW agent and order what you want and
A cursory search has found equivalent oil available from 'Bavarian
Autosport' in the USA in 1litre cans for US$14.95.
I make no actual recommendation so feel free not to use it. Bavarian
Autosport do recommend the stuff for what that's worth.
Mine has a digital counter that tells me when the next oil change is and it
is roughly every 15K miles. I use full synthetic and I am sure a lot of BMWs
use the same (especially the new ones). Sometimes I drive it hard (since it
is a BMW, and an Ultimate Drive Machine) and then I might get the oil change
sooner. The computer keeps track of this stuff.
100K miles... Pa...lease!
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