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1985 Full-Size K5 5.0L/305 4WD

There is a question you can skip down to the next paragraph if you don't want to read about my rig.

Just got my first 4wd and am very excited. Figured I just had to tell everyone because I know you all care very much for me. To see pictures of my rig go to

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up toblazer23.jpg. Not much rust for it's age, and that's the original paint.Except for the tailgate the doors open and close properly, no need to slam.Latch on right side of tail gate comes up about 3/4 of an inch to high.Looks like the hinge mounts bent and it can't seat right. Carpet onpassenger side in front of passenger seat has some weird wet stuffunderneath, gunna have to rip it out or clean it or something. New tires andalignment. Alloy rims. New brake line (cost $2.80). All plastics inside arein good shape except for some good-sized cracks on the dash. Extras: cruisecontrol (status unknown), power windows/locks, ac (needs recharge), tiltsteering, center consol, full flip (not tilt) passenger seat, Silverado /wrips only on drivers seat. K5 $150.00 tow $ 45.00 brake line $ 2.80 my very own k5....priceless cheezy I know but I'm stoked.

Now here are the few questions I have about my K5. First the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. When I put it in drive, it stays in first gear, when I put it in second gear, it stays in first gear, when I put it in over drive it stays in first gear. Just wondering if any of you have any thoughts as to what it might be? I know this isn't a very exhaustive diagnostic but I thought someone might be able to give me a direction. Local shops have almost all started with a guess at the governor (on the trans of course) but all have also said it might be a shot transmission. Now for a question about the dash. There is a cluster of 4 small gauges to the left of the two large main gauges. The bottom left hand gauge wasn't installed at the factory, and I would like to know what I am missing. My only guess is that the right large gauge which is gas would become a tach and that small bottom left hand gauge would become the gas. But I have been wrong before. Also... would anyone be willing to write down either a URL or a quick n' dirty on how to properly abuse my 4wd trans? I know that 4wd transmissions take some special care and aren't totally idiot proof, and when I made my first graunching sounds today I figured I better find out before I kill what may be a good tranny. Google only reveals recalls on blazers and random 4wd vehicles, fortunately none on my k5. Thanks for any help you may be able to offer.

Reply to
KJ
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Trans is shot (sorry) we have one behind a 6.2 diesel and have replaced it ~14 times (over 400k) and each time this was the symptom, they just stay in

1st. It's a 700R4 which is actually not a bad trans you can get it rebuilt for less then a grand or another one from Summit or one of the major rebuild companies. Just make sure to watch the guys that are rebuilding it they tend not to replace the input shaft seals and upper clutch packs because they are hard to get to...doesn't make sense to me but I actually helped the last guy rebuild and found original GM parts in the trans when it was supposed to have been completely rebuilt. You may want to call around to your local GM dealers and get their prices. They may not be much higher and it will come with a 3yr/36k mile warranty good at any GM dealership in the US and Canada.

It is not missing it is a set of idiot lights. You can if you are brave and don't have cruise control get an older dash cluster and change it to one that has the tach in the large gas gauge spot. Somebody did the change over here about 2 or 3 months ago on a 84 Blazer. He had to do a little "custom" wiring but did get it to work.

Best thing to do is join a 4x4 club in your area. They always have days where they teach the newbie's how drive w/o destroying their trucks or themselves. Driving off-road is like sailing it takes a certain touch that is gained by experience.

Even if there were a thousand recalls for your truck non would be active after 18 yrs...generally they have a 5 year cut-off. Get a catalog from I.C. Whitney their prices are ok (shipping is high) but they have most replacement body parts as well as replacement dashes (the part that has the crack). I also have started to deal with a company called LMC truck which also has just about every part you could want and are a little better cost.

good luck, mark

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Reply to
rock_doctor

So do I! Forgot to mention it has about 57,000 miles on it.

Reply to
KJ

Thanks much! Just took a look and saw a dome but it was on the right - but sides of the tranny are deceptive.... they change from your elevation compaired to it. Will check it shortly, hope to high hell it's stripped!

Well thats why it isn't there, it has a stock radio w/ cassett player & clock.

Still really couldn't find anything. I mean a very basic do/don't list like would be in the manual. Like, "don't drive 75mph in 4 low with 1 wheel locked"

Reply to
KJ

Took it off. Looks like there is some wear but no stripping. Locks tightly with gears inside. From what it looks like the springs that connect to the what I assume to be centrifugal weights don't retain the weights at all. But the fluid smelt pretty funky .... I guess I would have to describe it as burnt. I'd like to drain it and look in the bottom of the pan but I can't find a drain plug anywhere! The only thing I see that looks like an inkling of a drain plug is a divot in the bottom of the pan off to one corner - as thought the plug might not have been completely punched out. One other thing, on the bell housing of the tranny there are two empty bolt holes on each side on the bottom of the tranny towards the very front of the bell housing. What might they be? Another question, there is a small maybe 3/16 round hole on the bell housing as well. Looks somewhat misplaced if you ask me, and I'd just like to know what it is. Sorry to be a bother, have a great day!

Reply to
KJ

Yahoo has a blazer group you might be interested in. has a link to the codes also, I found the gear ratio for my 88K5 from it.

Reply to
LARRY929

your throttle valve may be stuck, did the K5 sit for a long time? start the truck up and open the hood, grab the TV cable on the carb, pull it sharply and let it snap back a couple times, try and drive it. if it shifts it was stuck, if it doesn't, stomp on the gas and run it up to 35, it should force a shift into second. if it doesn't shift, take it to a tranny shop.

there is no drain plug. you have to take the pan off. this can suck if you rush in and just pull out all of the bolts. the easy way is to put the front wheels on an incline or drive up onto a 2X6 (or similar) lying flatways, it doesn't take much inclination. now, loosen all of the bolts, don't remove them. start removing the bolts from the back of the tranny to the front. (make sure you have a drainpan that can hold at least 5 qts) leaving in the front two. now, let the ATF drain out as much as you can, if you pump the pan back up to the tranny it will push more ATF out. when you think you got out all you can, push the pan up towards the tranny and remove the last two bolts and lower the pan. wipe out the pan and clean the magnet. install a new filter and re-install the pan. put in 5 qts of ATF and try and drive it. you may have to do this 2 or 3 times to get most of the burnt fluid out.

The only thing I see that looks like an inkling

if it's square, it's the magnet, if it's round, dunno.

One other

those are for torque rods that stiffen the bellhousing to the block, I don't know if 85's had them (my 88 does)

Another question, there is a small maybe 3/16

if it's at the bottom center, it's just a drain hole.

HTH, Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

It sat for about a month that i know of. Before that the the guy i bought it from might have had it longer, and the kid he got it from must have left it for a while. What exactly is the TV cable? My carb is all stock so local would be nice too.

Would a honda civic do?

Yes but what would cause it to burn?

round... probably the magnet

A good idea to have or just as well without?

Draining what? Swamp water?

Reply to
KJ

the Throttle Valve cable is what modulates the shifts on a TH700R4, it is the cable that connects to the throttle linkage on the carb w/ an adjuster on it. it should be the lower of the two cables.

sure, why not.

general abuse, towing in OD, pulling too heavy a load, burnt and/or worn out clutches. basically the ATF burns when it sustains temps of over 210F for any length of time.

well, they're nice to have, but a real MF'er to put on if they're gone. one of the two (I don't remember which off hand) requires significant disassembly of that side of the motor to get at the bolt. if you're not planning on thrashing it, I wouldn't worry about it.

swamp water, or ATF from a leaking seal, or engine oil (though this usually will run down the oil pan). if you don't allow for a leak, imagine how much engine power it would take to spin the torque convertor in a bellhousing full of ATF.

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

In article , KJ ruminated:

Probably got rust holes under the windshield gasket (common place for rust and leaks to develop). So the rainwater just runs onto your floorboard, where you end up with a 'shroom farm. Next time you have the windshield changed, just have them shoot more sealant under there, it'll close up the holes (it's not worth doing it the "right" way, a fiberglass repair, on a vehicle this old). Windshields are cheap for that vehicle, you can probably get a brand spanking new windshield for well under $200. For my S-10 of that vintage, I got a new windshield for $99. Bear in mind that you'll need to call around and the windshield shop you find may be in a bad section of town (the windshield shop that did the $99 jobber was nestled in a big tin shack near a bad neighorhood. But the windshield worked just fine at keeping rain off my face :-).

Reply to
Eric Lee Green

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