Somehow the system came back up and is working properly as of this morning. I pulled the cluster anyways to see if anything was actually loose and everything is snug.
So if it's back there is obviously an electrical issue that is the problem but I'll have to wait until the problem happens again before I can do anything. Any testing now using schematics and continuity tests are gonna be useless as long as everything works.
Not necessarily. (Unless you're worried about breaking it again.) I would think there is a good chance that you're dealing with some bad solder or connections somewhere. While continuity checks might not be helpful, giving the controller board a good once over under bright light and with a magnifying glass may reveal something.
Note that you do have to really be looking. It won't hurt to try and "wiggle" components on the circuit board to see if their soldered-in leads flex or reveal a cracked joint. I don't know if you've looked for bad solder joints before, but they can be a bear to find.
Other things that might be helpful include tapping, shaking and gently twisting the controller board to see if it blanks out, resets itself or stops working properly as you do. When you find something that makes a difference, "zoom in" and test specific areas of the board. Temperature differences could reveal faulty components as well. It recently turned cold here--what is the weather like in your area and has it changed recently?
the weather did start getting colder in the past couple of weeks... dropping to between 5 and 10 degrees celsius most nights. But on some of those colder nights the heat has worked.
I had the cluster out as far as I could take it out without actually unhooking it and played with the power connection. Nothing flickered when I did that. Is the housing itself able to come completely apart? It looked like a completely enclosed plastic housing.
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