Drum Break Housing removal trick?

Hit it with PB Buster around the axle and studs then heat around alxle with torch then give it a few love taps and it will come off.

Rap it pretty hard right buy the lug studs where the drum is against the axle. Put the lug nuts on loose so if you accidentaly hit one you wont hurt the threads.

Hit the h*ll out of it with the biggest hammer you have.

I would suggest that you back off the adjuster through the slot in the back of the backing plate. You might need a screwdriver to push the adjusting arm away from the adjuster screw. Get a manual and you will see what I mean. It is not uncommon for the drum to wear and for a ridge to form in the drum that won't clear the brake shoes when you try to remove them. If you try to force it off without backing off on the adjustment you will pull the shoes off with the drum breaking the spring pins and perhaps damaging the wheel cylinders.

Thanks Rhbuxton, This is what I was looking for - the key. I've already beat the ^&*( out of it with a hammer - it didn't budge. W/ 165Kmi I believe the wear-in groove idea, and with the force I've used with a hammer, I believe a puller would mess up the break parts. So thanks - when I get to doing it I will try this (it isn't squeeking except in reverse). I figure I may got another

5000mi before it becomes necessary. Just that I never saw > I would suggest that you back off the adjuster through the slot in the back of

If you've backed off the adjusers and/or the shoes are free (no grooves), they should come off by hand, at least the ones on my two trucks always have, with perhaps a light tap to break them loose.

Pete

Today got around to pulling the beak drums whatever it took... It took me quite a while (3hrs) and it wasn't good enough to just hammer it (got a good hammer and I am strong (and phew got strong tryin)). After hammerin my ass off I tried prying it against the dust cover (that is actually stronger than they used to be). Then I tried a good hammer angel with a chizel to aim. Still stuck. Then I tried the break adjuster (later learned that even though they were loosed they didn't collapse). Finally, I constructected a puller. I used a black pipe 1"x ~15", and first cut holes in the middle and ends so I could pull with foundation bolts and a harmonic ballancer puller. The founation bolts didn't grab well enough and I ended up welding rail-road-spikes into the end-holes. At last!!! they pulled with the harmonic ballancer puller pushing against the axil in the middle (the

2nd one was also stuck but pulled easy with this nice puller). Once they were off I could see there was a ring of dust that was formed into a body-putty-like lip. I ground it off with a grinder-pad on my circular saw. Replaced the shoes (thought they weren't totally wipped). When putting back together, the first (most stuck) took some hammering and -wow- one of the wieghts fell off. I welded it back on, cooled it, and the rest was easy - back together fine. The best suggestion from the group was to the loosen of the e-brake adjusters, but it didn't work. In the end I had the satisfaction of fabricating a puller that can pull any drum that size with ease (my 80 camaro pulls off hard too). Anyone want one? I can make-em (specify drum-widths - probably $20 - use with your harmonica ballancer puller). Is the puller idea new??? It didn't seem well supported in the prior thread. Maybe better would be an air-based puller to just pop them quick. Anyone know of other drums this hard to pull??? (I'm 40 and have done about 50 drum pulls without experiencing this situation before). Is this a 1 in 50 situation or < 1 > Hit the h*ll out of it with the biggest hammer you have.

Did you try hitting it right near the lugs on the axel to loosen the rust? That one has always worked for me. It can still be hard to get of but at least it will move. Backing the shoes off will help but only after it is loose from the axle.

body-putty-like

I had the same problem years ago. To solve the rust to the axle problem I made homemade gaskets with a paper I use at work called "fishpaper" it is used to insulate power cable connections and is used in the electrical field to shield motors, stators etc. It does not burn up, although it can get very hot. You do not have to do anything to the paper as it already contains a resin embedded in the paper. It is quite stiff about as thick as the spiral notebook covers kids use for school. It is not a consumer sold product but available to electricians, engineers, etc.. I know it is a little expensive but I always have nice size scraps to make gaskets from it. It does not absorb moisture.

The idea came to me when rebuilding an older model 1937 Chevy truck and when looking through the manual it had this paper gasket, also noticed it on vehicles up into the 50's.

It has worked for me.

body-putty-like

OK got ya, it was the shoes holding them on.......

For what it's worth I just pulled my rear drums and struggled for 15 min or so till I got out my propane torch. I heated the drum face near the hub and the drums literally popped off. No puller, no sweat...

Drum break housing? I guess you want to remove your rear drums to replace your brake shoes?

If badly worn there may be ridges in the drums and this keeps them from coming out. Loosen the adjustor manually and they should come out freely.

Elliot:

Make damn sure the drum isn't rusted to the axle portion that extends thru it. If you cannot detect any motion then use some penetrating oil there. Then use a dead blow hammer after it has a chance to sit and see if that loosens it up.If not then yer facing using a torch to heat/expand the drum away from the axle. If it's loose already and not coming off-do like JP said and back off yer adjusters. If that is not possible-take a cold chisel and remove the heads from the hold down "Nails" from the backing plate side. Not to worry-new ones are contained in the small parts kit. Hang in there.

Respectfully submitted,

Loren Knighton Woodland, CA.

Under the hood since 1964 Member TRNI IATN

I had the same problem on my 98 K1500. I ended up heating the drum face near the hub with a propane torch. About 20 seconds and it literally popped of. Prior to that I had exhausted myself and all other suggestions. Give it a try, it might work for you.

Group, It appeared there are a few responses that did'nt see the solution... "It wasn't rust to the axil (that part was clear and it was still stuck more than I could hammer/pull by hand). It was the fact that the ebrake adjuster didn't loosen (froze) and the rim of body-puddy-like substance around the outside of the break drum not clearing the shoes. The home-made puller was the only way to

get them off." I constructed a puller using 2 railroad spikes welded to the ends of a pipe and a harmonic ballencer puller. Elliott

D Wrate wrote: