I am looking for instructions/suggestions on how to remove rear brake drum on my Camry 2005 LE (4 cyl). I need to inspect the rear brake shoes. I have noticed on front surface, there there is a larger hole with rubber plug and 2 small holes (I think threded) on both sides of the hub.
Look at this site. They have instructions for many modles.
Download the shop manual for your car from the TIS Toyota Information System
--Winston
I got my hands on factory manual for rear brake service. The problem now seems to be that the drum seems to be "fused" to the hub. I gave the drum few whacks with a hammer, but it does not move at all in relation to the hub. Any advice on how to overcome this obstacle?
What happens when you drive the drum extractor screws into those threaded holes?
Parking brake is not set, yes? (GD&R)
Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle?
Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to avoid any ridge in the drum?
--Winston
le
What I thought were threaded holes in the drum, are not holes, but a little dimples, so I can not use bolts to force the drums out. I am planning to buy rust penetrator and try to loosen connection between drum and the hub. Now the hub and the drum look like it is a solid piece, such a good fit. I watched some videos on internet on how to take a "stubborn" drum of the hub, and sometimes the drum needs to take a heavy pounding before it gets loose. In the worst case, I will take it to Toyota dealer (not a preferred option). My Camry milage is ~123,0000 km, or ~76,000 miles. The front brakes are amazingly durable, I hope the rear ones are similar, but it's about time to check them out.
Q & A to Winston's questions:
Q: Parking brake is not set, yes? A: I always fully release parking brake, so the hub turns freely.
Q: Tried PB Blaster around the face of the axle? A: Planning to buy one and use it.
Q: Did the manual mention cranking the star wheel back a taste to avoid any ridge in the drum? A: Yes, I have tried this, but the main issue, I think, is complete lack of any movement between the drum and the hub, even when the drum is hit with a hammer. I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that there should be at least a minimal movement between drum and the hub if the drum is not stuck.
(...)
The 'drum remover' tool sounds perfect for this problem.
You can probably borrow one from your local parts monger for a small deposit.
--Winston
brakes/bt105.htm
Thanks for all the info! I have successfully removed the drum. Using PB Blaster seemed to do the trick. It turns out that after almost
80,000 miles there is ~3.5 mm thicknes left on the shoes, so changing them can be done at the later date. According to factory manual the original thickness was ~5 mm, so it seems there is many miles/kms left on them.(...)
WooHoo! :)
Better living through chemistry.
Yup. The fronts do most of the stopping. Luckily they are discs and almost fun to fix.
If you were around me, I'd loan you my power bleeder so you could flush your brake lines. It is the Cat's Pajamas.
--Winston
Would the brake line bleeding be recommended for 7 years old car, if it was never done since the purchase?
(...)
I've never seen it on a manufacturer's list of maintenance items but personally I feel it would be a good idea.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water out of the air. Water can corrode brake parts and support algae growth.
Recently I had to replace the master and clutch cylinders on my truck because the reservoir and lines had become 'algae central'. After flushing that junk out of the lines and replacing those parts, the clutch was much more predictable and linear.
--Winston
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