I have a 1990 LeBaron Convertable, 3.0L V6, 4 speed auto.
None of the running lights work, nor do the cornering lamps.
The turn signals, brake lights and headlights all work.
When I install a fuse (20A) for the break lights then turn the lights on, it immediately blows.
Jumpering across the fuse with a test lamp with the light switch on makes a buzzer sound weakly and lights the test lamp, but still no running lights.
Sort of a pain not being able to drive it after sunset.
The other problem is an intermittent crank but no-start after it's been driven a while then shut off and left to sit for a few minutes.
I did some research today and found how to get the trouble codes, but I'm not certain exactly what the code number is due to the way the check engine light blinks.
First is 12 for the start code, no problem there.
Then it makes a long pause, blinks twice quickly then pauses, but not as long as the pause after the first code.
Then it blinks twice quickly again and pauses as long as it did after the first code.
Then it does the twice-pause-twice again then the long pause and 55 to indicate that it's done.
So is it blinking 44, or 22 twice??? Why couldn't it just put the @%$@%#@%# codes out to the digital speedometer? (Duhhh, that'd be too _easy_ and too _logical_ and if the car owner ever found out the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON trick with the ignition, then he or she might be able to figure out what a problem is without taking it to the expen$ive dealer.)
I also found some articles on 1990's Chryslers and other MoPar makes that detail just how much of a pain they can be to diagnose even with fancy equipment because if you don't catch the problem as it happens, in three seconds the computer will lie to itself that the sensors are working properly by substituting their default values. This keeps the car running until too many things fail and the computer has to switch to "limp home" mode.
One instance was a 1990 Lebaron Coupe that claimed the TPS voltage was exactly 5V when a voltmeter connected to the TPS was reading over 13V, with spikes to 60V. The problem turned out to be that the TPS wire and injector #1 wires had at some point been mashed and they were intermittently shorting together.