2000 Concorde 3.2 Liter - trunk lock

Perhaps this will help:

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

That's the diagram I have as well (Haynes manual). Are you thinking the Deck Lid Release Solenoid can be R&R'd from the BCM? That would be nice.

I found three identical solenoids in the fuse block at the end of the driver's side dash, which appear to control the various door locks. I unplugged and interchanged them with no change. The door locks all work with door switches and RKE, but the trunk lock doesn't work. I should have said this at first! Also, I used a meter to check supply voltage to ground at both terminals (and across each other) which plug into the truck lock when the switches were depressed, but no voltage. Also, I couldn't find any visible damage to the wires.

Thanks so much for your reply!!!

Carey

You're welcome.

Those three things in the fuse block are actually relays (similar to solenoids, but not the same). In that drawing I linked, the thing in the BCM labeled "Decklid Release Solenoid" is meant to mean the signal that controls the decklid release solenoid (the latch in the trunk lid)

- and in fact in other schematics in the FSM showing that same BCM output is labeled "Decklid Release Control". Doesn't help when the manufacturers use inconsistent, and, in this case, incorrect terminology.

Have you looked at that decklid release control signal with the voltmeter right at the BCM? That would confirm whether the problem is in the BCM or instead is a broken wire between the BCM and the trunk lid (I know - that would be too easy - but it is possible.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for five minutes (disconnect the ground connection at the negative jump post on the passenger side strut tower)? It isn't all that unusual for resetting the BCM likwe that to fix this type of problem - certainly wouldn't hurt to try.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

One wire to the switch is already connected to battery V+ thru a fuse - so he would not have to mess with that wire going to the switch. He would need to cut the wire between the switch and BCM and the wire betwen the BCM and the decklid solenoid, and splice the one wire from the switch to the wire going to the decklod solenoid to accomplish what you're getting at.

The only concern would be if the switch could handle the solenoid current. Right now it only switches a low current signal input to the BCM. It might be OK directly driving the solenoid, but it is a consideration.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

You're saying that you know for a fact that the switch itself is designed for 15 amps even though the input to the BCM is probably a few tens of milliamps or less?

What I am asking is are you saying the switch itself can handle the current of directly driving the solenoid, and how do you know that?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')