94 Intrepid 3.5L A/C problems again

Sep 24, 2006 11 Replies

I thought I fixed a leak in the AC system, but I was wrong. This time I removed the plastic cap from low side service valve and opened the valve. A very small amount of refrigerant came out, but it was enough for me to identify the smell. It smelled exactly like the inside of the passenger compartment smelled when I last charged up with a can of R134. So the leak seems to be under the dashboard rather than in the engine compartment.



By the way, I used a can of r134 with UV dye and could see no signs of leakage in the engine compartment.



Any ideas of what is leaking under the dash? Thanks.


The evaporator has a leak. The complete dash has to be removed in order to replace this part. No a Do It Yourself Job.

Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech

You have a leaky evaporator. Lots of luck on that!

Did you use the special UV light to check ??? Yes if the fumes were in the inside of the car the evap is probably leaking. I would sugest you have it checked to verify where the leak is.. R&R of the evap is a major project. DO NOT TRY AND PUT ANY SEALER IN THE SYSTEM to fix the leak

As Glenn (MaxPower)has pointed out before, the dye will show up (under UV light) at the condensate drain with a leaking evap.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Not a completely true statement... For the majority it would be dealer or service center work, but SOME of us "at home mechanics" are capable...

Where is the condensate drain located? TIA.

Under the vehicle by the passenger side frame rail, just above the transmission. If you are smelling the PAG oil inside the vehicle you can bet the evaporator is leaking

Glenn

I've had dashes off of many cars to do expansion valve/evaporator/actuator work, but as one gets older, it become more an onerous task! Nothing's worse than getting contorted on the floor pan to get the thing apart or back togehter and realizing you can't get up all that easily.

>

Only if the suction side draws down in the vacuum, impossible on DC systems, which use a low side safety switch. The moisture would come from ham fisted servicing, especially with those cheap kits sold in junk stores for installing cans of 134...THAT'S a real problem, and the reason why I always suggest taking car AC (or any refrigeration job) to a well equipped professional with the right tools and basic servicing knowledge to do the job correctly the first time.

well that's 3 posts by DeserTBob on this group, and on replies- so word is getting out what a troll, hacker, and j****ff he really is. If you want a good eye opener, go over to alt.collecting 8-tracks group, now he's over there attacking peoples' helpless wives.

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