Neon AC compressor cycling

And you're spending the time and energy on [it] for what purpose again?

If I apply what you're saying here Bill, the mere act of connecting a volt meter to a battery installed in a car constitutes a voltage dividing circuit. While some voltage may well be divided off to the meter, that is hardly what the original design intent was for the circuit as it was built.

What an ass.

Anyone else get the idea this Neil Nelson is a prizewinning asshole????

So you are admitting you know squat?? You are a young wet behid the ears know-it-all punk with little or no experience to back you up. I was a mechanic already when you were still in diapers.

Most certainly not, as the outside of the old pict carb was a ball of rime ice the size of a tennis ball

I know carb icing - and vapour lock, intimately.

By the way, Clare is NOT a SHE - so if you are giving me a hard time figuring I'm an "uppity female" you can forget it. I've been a licenced auto mechanic in Ontario since before my 19th birthday - and that was well over 40 years ago.

None of these ()my '69 225 or my '63 170) Slant Six engines had that setup that I can remember.

The carb ice solution was a peice of roughly 2" scat tubing from a sheet metal stove fastened to the manifold to a thermostatically controlled, vacuum operated, air control flapper on the intake canister air horn. This did not exist on the 1963 170, and did not always stay on the later engines. The scat was aluminized cardboard, and the sheet metal corroded away around the manifold mounting bolts.

The engine also had a "hot spot" on the intake at the base of the carb controlled by a very rudimentary "heat riser" valve, that tended to either stick or burn out the thermostatic spring that actuated it by twisting on the pivot shaft. This helped prevent ice when it was in operational condition, but the primary purpose was to heat the manifold for better mixture atomization. Running "cold manifolded" improved performance by keeping the air density higer.

All these "modifications" made to the slant six that contributed to reducing carb ice were EXTREMELY important on the early models with the Holley 1920 series carbs (removeable float bowl) as those carbs were VERY efficient ice-makers. The Carter BB series carbs that were also used were not as touchy about ice. Both the '63 Valiant and the '69 Dart I owned had the Holley carb.

I did not experience the perculation problems on my engines, but I generally ran hightest as both were slighly "warmed over". Raised compression ratios, altered camming etc made them like higher octain fuel - and I was normally running at lower altitude (around 1040-1050 feet), where vapour pressure was not as critical as it would be at

I'm not talking automatic temp control, although the New Yorker has that option. I'm talking the air control and a/c switches being interconnected.

Not talking just under-dash systems. Talking factory installed in-dash systems too.

No need to get 'em fixed, as they are operating as designed.

And you ALWAYS spell EVERYTHING correctly??? Nit picking little squirt.

A voltmeter is installed in PARALLEL and voltage is equal in all branches of a parallel circuit, so no voltage divider exists.

On the other hand, when you install an AMMETER in the circuit, which IS a series circuit, there IS a voltage divider, as the ammeter reads the voltage drop accross the "shunt" of the ammeter, which, in series with the load, forms a "voltage divider"

The voltage drop accross the calibrated resistor indicates the current flow via Ohm's Law.

I wasn't aware what the temperature and never claimed to know that. What's your point?

Your experience with cold climates is pretty limited as well as you will see from later temperature statistics I posted for some pretty cold places. They aren't nearly as cold for nearly as long as you stated.

And they aren't continuously cold for months on end.

I've never seen a therapist. It doesn't seem to have worked for you so I think I'll pass.

It will be cooler than sitting idle, but it will be above ambient as the hot air from the radiator doesn't just magically disappear from the engine compartment.

Dry is a relative not an absolute descriptor. Drier is better when trying to remove fog from a windshield.

Yep, I lived in Erie, PA for two years.

Well, we had -25 twice last winter with wind to boot. I don't think we hit -100 wind chill, but -60 is still pretty chilly.

Matt

A touch of breeze and the fog is no longer just over the water.

Matt

Yes, that is obvious. Glad you were finally able to pick up on an obvious point. It should be also equally obvious to you that not running the compressor for two weeks or longer in the off season is equivalent to "storing" the car for two weeks or longer while on vacation. Is this really that hard of a concept for you to grasp?

Still dodging the question. What does the altitude at which a Neon is driven have to do with understanding the concept of dew point?

Matt

It isn't just the dew point, it is the relative humidity that determines the rate of evaporation. Running the AC will further lower the dew point (and lower the RH) which will increase the rate of evaporation at a given temperature. Fortunately, increasing the temperature also lowers the RH and increases the rate of evaporation. That is very nice as it allows the heater to pick up where the AC leaves off as it gets colder.

Yep, nobody argued anything contrary as best I recall from this long, and becoming monotonous, thread.

Depends on what you consider narrow. Various sources list the range as being from 20 F up to 70-90 F OAT. I don't consider a 50-70 degree span to be all that narrow.

The cooling isn't just due to the Bernoulli effect. The vaporization of the fuel is typically a much larger factor. This can cause a temperature drop of 40F or more in the carburetor.

Matt

None.

None on auto AC in particular, but a far bit on AC in general in my thermodynamics courses.

I don't need to be an auto AC repairman to operate an auto AC system and read an owner's manual.

Matt

I didn't say you were a pig. You obviously aren't familiar with that saying.

You don't need to tap the circuit to have a voltage divider. The voltage is divided whether you measure it or not. This is the same as the tree falling in the forest scenario. Just because nobody is there to hear it doesn't mean it didn't make a noise.

Matt

I'm never absolutely certain about anything as there are almost always exceptions. I'm pretty certain I've read that in owner's manuals for cars I've owned, but my current cars don't say that. However, the Caravan refers to the exact same phenomenon in the context of preparation for storage. Other than lacking the word "winter" which you are so hung up on, it is saying exactly what I said and for exactly the reason I said it. Do you dispute that?

If you can tell me that there is a difference between not running the AC all winter and then cranking it up in the spring, and not running the car for a few weeks and then cranking it up, I'll concede that you were right and I was wrong and lubrication of the compressor isn't a valid reason to periodically run the compressor.

Matt

No, it is just that I haven't owned every car model that was ever made.

It is the same because in neither case is the compressor running. If not running the compressor for long periods of time poses a potential for damage to the compressor from lack of lubrication, then how does the compressor know why it wasn't being run?

Matt

Wrong on all counts? Hardly. The only "count" was that winter wasn't specifically mentioned. However running the compressor periodically to keep it lubricated was mentioned and that was the essence of my initial comment. Still trying to twist the words to support your claim, eh?

What is the one exception?

Yep.

Likewise, I'm having a hoot reading your attempts to claim we said things we didn't.

Matt

Well, you can always pick a GOOD example to support your claim that it remains constantly cold for months on end...

Matt

I think it was carburetor ice.

Matt

OK, I'm convinced...your ignant!!