Do not use this method for headgaskets. It is suitable for general use. >
> 1.Whenever possible, use a conventional "paper" gasket, rather than
> attempting to form a gasket in place with only RTV.
> 2. Four surfaces need to be wetted: Two metal surfaces and both sides of
> the paper gasket.
> 3.Obtain a rubber printer's roller from a graphic arts supply house or > good
> photographic supply house. Photographers use a roller for ferrotyping.
> 4. Where space permits, dab RTV on metal surfaces at convenient intervals
> and use roller to distribute RTV as a film, wetting the metal. If space > is
> restrained, spread a thin film with the fingers.
> 4. Dab RTV on gasket and use roller to distribute RTV, wetting the gasket
> on both sides. Use newspaper under gasket.
> 5. Clean roller as soon as possible, using denatured alcohol or whatever
> else will cut it.
> 6. Assemble gasket and parts to be sealed and bolt down. Very little RTV
> will be excruded, which is desirable.
>
> The above method will perfect a seal that will last. It is good for oil
> and water resistance, but not recommended for gasoline. Please remember
> all four surfaces need to be wetted 100% or air bubbles and/or skips will
> defeat a perfect seal.
>
> Blue or Red RTV is generally used, however, where there is no concern
> needed to be taken for O2 sensors, GE 100% Silicone (clear) available in
> large tubes for caulking guns is acceptable and despite its off-label use
> described here, has been found entirely suitable for automotive use. >
> Use fresh materials as Blue or Red RTV will expire and won't cure! GE > 100%
> is date marked and will usually cure well past its expiration.
>