BX using a lot of oil

That is normal, the oil is pumped to all moving parts of the engine. If you turn off the engine, it takes some time before the oil in the engine flows back into the sump.

That is why you should wait at least 15 minutes after turning off the engine, if you want to check the oil. The best thing is to wait a few hour or check it in the morning before leaving to work, school, etc.

The oil must be between min. and max. mark, too much oil is just as harmfull as too little oil, so be carefull with that. How much over the top mark is the oil level? more than 5mm is too much.

good luck.

"ahinst" schreef in bericht news:41275c95$0$218$ snipped-for-privacy@dread12.news.tele.dk...

That is normal, the oil is pumped to all moving parts of the engine. If you turn off the engine, it takes some time before the oil in the engine flows back into the sump.

That is why you should wait at least 15 minutes after turning off the engine, if you want to check the oil. The best thing is to wait a few hour or check it in the morning before leaving to work, school, etc.

The oil must be between min. and max. mark, too much oil is just as harmfull as too little oil, so be carefull with that. How much over the top mark is the oil level? more than 5mm is too much.

good luck.

"ahinst" schreef in bericht news:41275c95$0$218$ snipped-for-privacy@dread12.news.tele.dk...

Thanks a lot for the comment. It is using about 1 lt per 1000 km and after waiting at the lights when starting there is a big smoke screen behind. Can it be the top or the pistons?

Using about 1 lt per 1000 km and after waiting at the lights when starting there is a big smoke screen behind is not normal.

The engine has run a lot kilometers, so I think there are 2 things that might be worn out.

1) The piston rings You can check this by doing a compression test on all the cylinders. A mechanic at a service station can do this for you, a low air pressure will indicate that the piston rings are worn out.

Unless you are a experienced mechanic, this is a job for a specialist. The cylinderhead and the crankshaft have to be removed for this. If you do this than it is better that you also check and if necessary you replace the valves and valve guides. (overhaul of the cylinderhead) because the cylinderhead is removed anyway.

2) The Valve guides. These are worn-out and causing the smoke screen behing you when you drive away from the traffic light. The color of burning oil is usuallu blue.

Both things are a lot of work and you might consider to replace the engine by a engine that is reconditioned or try to fix it by your self if you are skilfull.

I have the Haynes BX manual (diesel) that describes the whole procedure to overhaul the engine and cylinderhead. Please let me know and I can give you a link where you can download it.

Good luck,

Sohail (Rotterdam, The Netherlands)

"ahinst" schreef in bericht news:41285cc2$0$213$ snipped-for-privacy@dread12.news.tele.dk...

Thanks for your diagnosis Sohail.

I now have the Haynes BX manual and it looks like a big job for the overhaul.

First time I did this was on a Y type ford side valve engine in the early

1960's that was just simple and fun then (I was 17) the last time was on a Mini in the early 70's a bit more complex but again fun.

The modern engines seem more complex and often require special tools or jigs.

I do not have the money to pay for a new engine so my only option is a DIY.

Are there any special items that I should watch for or special tools that are hidden from view in the manual?

I am thinking of getting an old scrap engine and re-doing that so I can still use the car to get the spares etc. I have noticed that there are several revisions to the motor numbers and these are confusing. The Haynes manual makes it even more confusing. I am woried that I redo an Engine and then it will not graft onto the gearbox or the like!

Any advice (no sarcasm please) I am trying to get a good car working as it should.

Surely, overhauling an engine is not an easy task.

Even if you decide to go the DIY route, it won't be cheap, because :

1. You'll have to buy a lot of specialist tools (e.g. valve spring compressor, piston ring compressor, torque wrench, engine stand)

1. You'll still have to pay a machine shop to perform some specialist tasks (e.g. cylinder boring/honing, crankshaft regrinding).

2. Citroen parts are always expensive, and at almost 300k kms you'll surely need many new parts for the rebuild.

IMHO, the best solution would be to buy a good used engine and transplant it to your car.

In any case, you shouldn't worry that a BX diesel engine wouldn't bolt to your transmission. They're all compatible. Most of the changes are made to the engine internals or the auxilliaries.