Any pit falls of brush painting???

Careful use of a gloss roller can give very reasonable results, very quickly. If you have the time then use fine wet and dry and t cut after several weeks of drying.

mrcheerful

snip

I would not recommend household gloss. I brush painted my engine bay with Lechler synthetic enamel which is much faster drying. You need to leave it at least 3 months before flatting with 1000 grade wet and dry (at least). T-Cut is OK but I did better with Farecla G3 and G10 - the latter is very fine and hard work by hand. I invested 20 quid in an orbital polisher to do the whole car. As with all enamels dust is the main problem. You need a clean garage, damp the floor etc. See

for a useful forum.

Thanks for comments, you say use a roller i was going to brush it but will have a go with a roller i surpose that should leave less brush marks, one question would i be best with non-drip or normal gloss i surpose to roller it on it should be nromal liquid gloss.

I will find time to wet and dry it, i have had some good trail with wet and dry E.T.C.

George

I have used "trade" quality non drip with good results, it is dearer than the diy paints, but covers much better. b and q sell trade paint IIRC

Have you thought of using Coach Enamel.

See

Thanks for the info I will have to look into it, i have never used any paint like that before, it looks very intresting. Thanks George

If you want to achieve a really good finish when hand painting a vehicle then use a paint designed specifically for the job, a vehicle paint or coachpaint as it's called will do admirably. I always recommend Tekaloid coach enamel because it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Tekaloid enamel is only available from these two companies though; "

". Steve.

Indeed ;)

You won't regret it,

Steve.

[snip]

You won't need to use wet-or-dry on Tekaloid, It's self flowing and dries to an outstanding shine straight off the brush, A roller should also be quite satisfactory but may leave an orange peel effect on heavier pigmented colours. You can at a later date wet flat minute contaminations if necessary.

I would avoid using any houshold paint on a vehicle especially thixotropics like non-drip because you have to fight againt the lumps and it will not flow out properly when it dries.

Steve.

I've found alkyd based synthetic paint finishes can be polished at a later date but it does take an age to fully harden. Alkyd is a resin as opposed to an oil which is probably why alkyd paint finishes can be polished with abrasive compounds.

Tekaloid enamel was at one time only linseed oil based but now tends to use alkyd resins too. Alkyd leaves a tougher harder and more brittle finish than linseed oil would, traditional linseed oil based paint cannot be compounded with abrasives only waxes.

I have visited "

" a couple of times in the past and would be more than happy to be involved but I cannot post to the forum because they use some (in my opinion unnecessary) weird unconventional scripting for the First, Prev, Post, Next and Last navigation buttons that don't do anything at all when my mouse pointer slides over them.

Steve.

Thanks Steve, i need to look into this more all my prep work is being done outside i may be able to borrow someones garage for a day for the top coats, i am very intrested in this coach paint it seams very good thanks very much for the tip. George