I gloss-rollered my Range Rover and it came out quite good (very cheap paint, very cold and damp weather. all done outside, miracle!!) Two years later I'm about to redo using Tekaloid. Has anyone had experience using Tekaloid and Owatrol (aka Flowrite, Penetrol) as a paint additive? Any comments?
I've never used Penatrol to retard the drying process, I sometimes add RAW Linseed oil if a particular colour dries too fast or I work faster. Although I appreciate this is not always possible.
Owatrol Penatrol "Oil" paint conditioner increases wet edge and working time which also helps eliminate brushmarks.
Owatrol Floetrol "Emulsion" paint conditioner increases wet edge and working time.
You may not need to use an additive with a roller but it will help if you intend to "tip off" with a brush after using a roller this will elliminate the orange peel effect often left behind when using rollers.
Perhaps someone here who has used Penatrol can comment on how it performs, I've usually just muddled through on problematic paint.
Steve.
The only gripe I have with Tekaloid is that it takes an age to dry, and if you drive off with it before it has solidified properly you will see all sorts of interesting patterns appear.
The slow drying is intentional and absolutely necessary. It is what makes the paint unique because slow drying paint helps eliminate brushmarks and gives a longer window or open time for application, although some colours do tend to dry faster than others depending on the type of pigment or lakes used. Tekaloid coach enamel is designed to give the painter the ultimate finish when painting carriages or coaches, Giving the right conditions no other paint AFAIK is suitable for the outstanding finish you get on carriage work when the paint is applied by hand.
During the hand painting tradition which became popular around the 17th century up until the early 20th century when all carriages and coaches were painted in synthetic linseed oil lead based finishes the carriages or vehicles were left to stand for a week at least in either a specially prepared area or left outdoors to weather before being commissioned. This in the trade was called the "flat" or standing off period which you've probably heard of.
Of course synthetic paint dries from the outside in, even though the outer finish may appear hard enough to touch the inner layers require further drying hence the "flat" area to leave vehicles to dry thoroughly.
However if you choose a slow drying pigment you can always add Terebine driers to speed up the process although I tend to try not using accelerators unless painting hidden areas like inner door panels etc.
Steve.
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