Painting

Having received several stupid quotes to get someone to spray-paint my

101, I'm gonna do it myself. I originally resprayed my 130 with cans of cellulose with a very reasonable finish. My question to the panel is; would Hammerite Smooth be a suitable paint to do a whole body (other than the cost!). I will not be preparing back to metal although I will be keying the whole body prior to the repaint.

If suitable, would it be better to hire a sprayer rather than use aerosols? Anyone BTDT?

Malcolm.

Reply to
balloons
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I got Mrs D's Rangie done 18 months ago for £250... The guy asked for £210 but I gave him and extra £40 as I know he was doing a real big favour.

I've now got raw fingers having spent most of the day rubbing the old tekaloid off of Percy.

My question is, is it realistic to spray Percy in my Garage where I have enough space to do in effect 1 side and 1 end at a time?

If I use Cellulose will it colour the floor ..i.e. fall as wet paint and stick.... likewise will it colour the rest of the garage and contents or will dust sheets solve this problem.

I've had a compressor for nearly 3 years , I'm itching to get some paint on but it's just not the weather.

If I bide my time...say a until it's dry.. can I spray outdoors (no wind) using anti bloom thinners and still pull it off or am I just stuck in the realm of wishfull thinking?

I've got a bit of a deadline (end of the month) to get Percy ship shape.

Lee D

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Reply to
Lee_D

As long as the wind is sensible (Force 10 is a bit much!) you shouldn't have too much bother.

Now for a Series motor I'd pull it out of the garage and remove the easier panels and spray them independently in the garage. But I only have a single garage.

With a double garage you should be fine - just make sure you have plenty of ventilation and a proper mask etc. The panels are all effectively separate so it's easy to do a side at a time.

What type of paint are you using?

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Cell.....

Cellul..........

Cellulou....

sod it... Peppermint. ;-)

Lee D

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Reply to
Lee_D

They vary between 1,000 Euros and 3,000 Euros. The latter I got today, even after telling them that I wasn't too fussy about the finish!!

One problem I have with the camper conversion is its height. It's a touch over 9 feet tall and won't fit into most car-sized booths/ovens. I'm also considering bringing it over to the UK and getting it painted there as there seems to be far more lower-budget options. As it's still on UK plates, I'll have to bring it over for an MOT soon so I might get it done at the same time. Anyone recommend a painter who would do it for a few hundred quid and make a reasonable job?

Pics at

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Malcolm.

Reply to
balloons

That's outrageous. I know of someone in Kent who had a Transit van resprayed - bright yellow! - for IIRC GBP350.

Reply to
QrizB

No, don't use hammerite:

  1. It is incompatible with cellulose or 1pack paints
  2. It won't stick to non-ferrous metals.

For a 101, that's a problem. If you have bare metal you'll need Hammerite Special Metals Primer (expensive) or a Uniblock or Etch primer (also not cheap) If you have previous coats of cellulose, it will stick to it, however, you can never paint over it with cellulose/1pack as it will soften the hammerite underneath (messy!)

Hammerite also has a unique quality that you must apply second coats before the paint has started hardening, otherwise you have to wait

24hrs before applying another coat. If you don't, the upper coat will soften the lower coat, and the whole lot becomes a soggy mess that won't harden (again)

Hammerite is wonderfull for painting those odds and sods, eg heater boxes, small panels, pedal boxes etc etc, which don't need a huge quality finish, but need to look nice. The Satin effect is particularly good for hiding rough preperation work or blemishes. However, once you try to use it for bodywork, the pain-in-the-arse effects far exceed the usefull qualities. For example, it is very difficult to flat back hammerite with normal wet&dry, as you have to wait 24hrs before you can do it, and the repaint doesn't blend in as well as it should.

In short, use cellulose. Cans are a problem, I painted my 101 using a gloss sponge roller (from B&Q etc) which achieves a quite good finish. You can always rub down and repaint areas which run/streak etc

Alex

Reply to
Alex

On or around Mon, 12 Jan 2004 17:24:45 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@cix.compulink.co.uk enlightened us thusly:

personally, I'd leave hammerite for painting wrought-iron railings. I dislike the stuff intensely.

and it'll likely fight with the existing paint, unless they've changed it

if you get proper coach enamel intended for brushing and the right temperature, you can get very good results by brush painting.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Austin Shackles at snipped-for-privacy@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk wrote on 13/1/04 9:21 am:

Have any of you looked at this website regarding paint etc

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The title page readsVehicle Painting Pointers.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

On or around Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:36:58 +0000, Nikki Cluley enlightened us thusly:

aye. and very good it is too.

but the main problem I have is picking a day with the right weather, seeing as I haven't the scope for painting it indoors.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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