what's a good classic for a novice to restore?

Personally I don't see P4 drivers as reprobates. Too genteel.

On the other hand I do remember a granny overtaking me round a blind bend whilst she was driving a P4 in N. Ireland. Mybe it was just an exception.

I was thinking the same about VW Beetles. Or what about a Capri 3.0S that someone's 'modified' (i.e. devalued)? There are many about that look gash i.m.h.o. - restore it back to standard spec in a desirable colour such as silver and a sub-£1000 would fetch maybe over £3000 if done well. Parts are cheep as chips too and good club support.

There's a Maxi down our street if you want it...

Except that they were also designed to be put together in a certain order, and to get to the bits that rot usually means dismantling several sound bits. They can be tricky to repair. Usually you have to be prepared to repair more than you expected.

OTOH parts _are_ cheap and plentiful, as are Minis, so you won't cry if you mess things up. There is also plenty of support on the web, so someone can alwyas answer your questions.

Avoid hydrolastic models as a novice; nothing difficult about them but they add extra complications, especially when you want to drop the rear subframe, as you undoubtedly have to at some stage to weld the mountings!

I do like Minis, but I prefer the interesting derivatives. Unfortunately that means expensive special parts or ingenuity!

A40s are easy to repair, but body parts availability is almost nil (so they get expensive - £450 a wing!), Club membership is essential.

Minors are straightforward with good parts availability. Avoid Travellers as the woodwork is expensive.

Heralds are basically simple and again good parts support, but chassis repairs can be difficult unless you go to the trouble of taking the body off.

Well that applies to all car, try replacing the full inner sill upright (the part with the tamped holes) on a Minor 2 door without cutting the bottom of the rear quarter panel off for example....

In article , The Blue Max writes

Something very like that. If the sills need doing (if?) then the FHC roof will hold things reasonably well aligned to the point that jigs are not required. Also, IIRC, the structure of the sills is a little different (because the DHC needs more strength). Mind you, I've only done bits on one TR7, I'm not an expert. This is just what I've heard (and it makes sense given the structure of the vehicle and my experience with other models).

Well you'll often hear that sort of thing, and sometimes it's true. The TR8 torque transfer from the axle is to the suspension hangers under the rear floor section. These are a problem area on TR7s due to rot, so I imagine TR8s suffer the same, but where a TR7 will fail the MOT before anything actually breaks, that may not be true of a TR8.

And in my local paper (Bath area) last night was a P6 - a 2000SC. Advert said interior worse for wear and it needs new inner/outer sills, but mechanically very good and tax exempt. He wants 200 quid for it.

I have no connection with the seller, and haven't been to look at it, so I can't advise. But if you want the contact number from the paper, just ask.

Jim

That is not a car for a novice to practise their (lack of) skill on though !

I wouldn't exactly call the front valance cheap...