I took the cross-fire off my 84 - c4 and put an intake and carb. totally happy with the change. I have a service manager from one of our local chevy dealerships that wants to buy my cross-fire setup. but I have no idea what would be a fair price. any ideas as to what a fair price would be ? I also don't know if I should sell it. should I keep it for the next owner ? would it make a difference in the price of the car if I should decide to sell the car in the future ?
any help with this decision would be very appreciated.
Sold my Crossfire unit for $450 on ebay..Jeep owners use them to increase the low end torque..Crossfire units are really good for those applications..
As far as the 1984..They are not very valuable ( $4000-5500) and I don't think a carb will hurt the value..maybe even increase it a few bucks..I sold mine last year for $5000..with 158,000miles on it..I did convert it to a
1990 TPI with the 1990 computer and a new custom made engine harness and FORD 24# injectors..Car ran much better than it ever did with the Crossfire unit. Neighbor now has it up to 176,400 miles and still runs better than new.
My current 1993 has been converted to use a Cadillac 4 Coil Northstar ignition system and runs great..that is the system GM should have used in place of the awful optispark unit.
You asked, "would it make a difference in the price of the car if I should decide to sell the car in the future ? "
To anyone who lives in an area with emissions inspections (all of us eventually), your car is not legal for street use. Thus, it's only value will be for parts. That box full of original EFI parts is worth a lot more to the next owner of the car than to anyone on Ebay.
How much would you pay for a car without a title? Same thing.
You didn't specify what kind of carburetor, of course. If it's a Quadrabog from a 1984-1985 Camaro/Caprice then I suppose it would be legal, if installed with all the other associated components.
Not my call, BUT, God will the old man ever keep his mouth shut. I would gather my sheckels and put in the X-ram manifold and sell the carburetion system. Now it's stock, sort of, and a wad of new fast ponies without the draft horses.
The engine size shouldn't affect the emissions reading. They're looking for concentrations of hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen. Sniffer tests don't capture and measure all the exhaust, just a sample.
But, if the baseline is a 2.8L MPFI V6 and the S10 has an old 350 with misadjusted Holly 850 and a rammed out converter then it'll fail. Swap in a stock 5.0/5.7 TPI from same year or newer with all the emissions components and it'll make it.
At least in Maryland if you drop a newer engine in a car its fine... BUT you have to meet the emission standards for the engine NOT the original car... Thus a 2000 engine in a 1990 vehicle would mean you had to pass emmisions for a 2000 vehicle not a 1990...
If you go the other way and drop the 1990 engine in the 2000 you still have to meet the standards for the 2000 vehicle...
thanks for your response. I have the stock engine that came in it in 84, except its now bored 30 over with flat-top pistons. the rest of the engine is stock. I will probably have to make some changes in the exhaust system when my state gets tougher on emission standards. as of now they are not that tuff on it.
In California, they have a profile of each car and option code for engines, If the car has a code for a 4cyl engine and it has a V/8 in it , then they won't even do a smog on it, If you happen to find an idiot that has a smog license and he does attempt to smog it, it will promptly fail, as the car's profile for emissions will be that of a
4 cyl and the emissions from the V/8 will raise a "flag" in the VID (Vehicle Identification Database) report. (the report that the testing computer sends back to the state.) The Car then will be "Tagged" and future smog tests would have to be at a Certified Test Only Station if you are lucky, If you aren't your Car may be Tagged as a "gross Poluter" then you are screwed. Oh, and the idiot that smogged your car in the first place, He would have lost his license because he has just been targeted By the B.A.R.'s enforcment division and they will send in a couple tricked out cars to see if he catches them which he won't.
Here are the basic ARB/BAR engine replacement guidelines:
This website also links to a database of ARB approved aftermarket parts or engine mod kits.
You can deviate from "stock" in California but the "hassle factor" is unreal. If an engine swap or mod has been done well and you know you'll pass "functional" and "exhaust" emissions, here's an approach:
Once the car has failed "viaual" at a certified test station, you can appeal and make an appointment at a "referee" station. These guys are contractors of the B.A.R. and are there to sort out "special cases." They won't look at "gross polluters" or "butchered systems" (missing CAT etc.) or major changes in rear axle (final drive) ratio.
The important thing is to not have a chip on your shoulder. Keep a positive and co-operative attitude! Be a "good sheep" and do what you're told!
Referees handle situations where there's a question about an approved part number to make a particular engine work in a given car; or, when the Air Resources Board has approved an "off road" component for street use. (Remember that aftermarket and performance parts are a big business in California and the state is politically sensitive to the guys who design, make and sell aftermarket and performance parts.)
The referees go pretty much on what the manufacturer's parts depot says for visual inspection. Bring a copy of the parts catalog pages, a letter from the parts depot that says a particular part does the emissions job on the VIN number in question, etc. Carry along the phone number of the person who wrote the letter. Once the "visual" hurdle is crossed, the referee will run a "funcitonal" check and a complete exhaust gas analysis on the car. If all goes well, you'll be issued a two year smog certificate. Two years later, you go through the whole routine again. (Go to a certified station, fail visual, make an appointment, drive 50 - 75 miles to an appointment at the referee station, wait your turn etc. etc.) Passing "visual" at a referee station is no guarantee that the same car and engine will pass two years later. There's always uncertainty.
I put a "gray market" 911 through this routine three times in seven years. Finally gave in, sold the 911 in New Mexico and bought my C4. Much happier now!
I'm only familiar with Virginia, which I thought followed the federal rules:
- Same year or newer engine.
- Car engine for a car.
- Car or truck engine for a truck.
- All emissions control components from either the car or the engine, but not both.
In reality, they never look at serial numbers nor would an inspector even know what to do with one. It's interesting that if you put an LS1 in a 1967 Camaro, it will have to have a catalytic converter. Even though the LS1 alone will pollute 90% less (guessing) than the original engine, it has to go in as a complete package.
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