flooded engine -- 84 CJ7

If it's flooded, you will smell gas.

Should be able to see it squirt gas as you pump the accelerator. If it's getting gas, then check for spark. Take one plug out, connect it and lay it on the engine block somewhere will it will get grounded. Turn the engine over and look for spark. Don't hold it with bare hands, it will knock the crap out of ya!

-- JimG

- where it will get grounded -

If there are no squirts of gas also suspect a back flow from the charcoal canister tossing a bunch od black bits into the carb. This can plug up the works and happens sometimes when they run out of gas.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Approximately 11/7/03 15:22, JimG uttered for posterity:

And when you pull it out, if it is all wet with a gasoline smell, the engine was just flooded.

Good point!

I wasn't sure if if the fuel pump was operating properly, so I tested it at the filter to verify that it was pumping (and it is).... though I can't get gas to squirt into the carb. Something must be sticking. Is there anything I can do short of a rebuild? A Jeep mechanic mentioned that the needle and seat assembly might be sticking (or it could be a number of other things). Can I remove this assembly without taking the rest of the carb off? By the way, its a Carter BBD (for an in-line 6). Would carb cleaner help any?

The temp is about 25 degrees -- could this cause something to stick?

Suggestions please.

Thanks

DP

Did you check it before or after the filter?

Gas needs to come out the center filter outlet. Best to take off the filter and try to blow through it while plugging the top or smaller outlet with your finger to see if the filter is ok.

The top outlet goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the top, it could have airlocked the line.

I would try tossing a 1/4 cup of gas down the carb and see what happens.

If it runs but won't idle, the idle circuit got plugged with junk.

Mike

Dave wrote:

Ok..... new problem.... sort of.

I was able to get it to start yesterday (after some banging with a screwdrive on the inlet valve) and drove it around for a couple hours with no problems. I think the needle and seat may have been sticking. Today presents a new problem........

Today, I tried starting it (gave it a couple pumps of gas). It ran for about 20 seconds and then died (which is typical if I don't keep on the gas enough, cause my choke isn't properly calibrated). I tried re-starting and can't get it going. I tried both started without pumping the gas (and of course with a couple pumps). Gas IS definately getting to the carb and I even tried started fluid (which didn't help at all). Could my distributor not be working properly, or could it not be spaking strong enough (worn plugs???). Once it heats up, she runs real strong. But getting it to run recently has been a challenge. Again, I just moved to a cold climate (from southern Califonia) and these problem didn't really exist before.

Does temperature have any effect on the amount of spark generated? What are the tell-tale signs of needing to replace my distribtor?

Thanks all.....

I would check the distributor cap and rotor and plugs first. Then the connection on the coil. That Ford plug thing has nasty tendencies to go bad. The clips inside lose their spring.

There also is a small wire on the side of the solenoid that needs cleaning now and then. This wire provides power to the coil when the starter is turning.

If it has weak spark and floods, lots of times the plugs have to be removed and cleaned before it will start normally again. The raw gas dissolves carbon and can cause carbon bridges across the spark plug gap. I have seen and heard of this several times on those engines.

A bad ground to the body can cause strange things. If the grounds aren't good, the starter can 'steal' all the power not leaving enough for the electronics to generate a spark.

Mike

Dave wrote: