Check to see if the resistor is "squished" on your key. It may be ok to
start for a while but then if that's the case you'll be dealing with the
column lock bug. Try using your other key and see what happens.
-Stan
I have new keys but sometimes with any of my keys new and old I turn the key
and dash light go seat moves but it will not crank so I pull it out put it
in and try again and agin untill it starts and other time it starts the
first time no problem... My understanding this has been the nature of this
car for atleast 4 years... when the dealer did the column they said the the
tumbler was worn some but the electrical was good, They did not open up
housing they just ran test on the wires...
if your tumblers were worn ?
the lock would probably not want to turn sometimes.
or you would have to jiggle your key.
try cleaning the contacts in your lock.
use WD-40.
do NOT use graphite..
my2˘
the cause of the jiggle is either your key, lock or a little
of both.
I would first try and have your key cut back to factory
specs.
(just a plane ole cheap mechanical key will do)
you will then have a key with NO ware, just like when it was
new.
(all ya want to see is if it helps eliminate the jiggle)
I would say 90% of the time,
re-cutting the key back to specs will solve the jiggle
problem.
remember, the wd-40 will not help the jiggle :-)
but it will clean out your lock..
happy holidays
If that's the case you kind of know your answer... I had a similar problem
in a New York parking garage. They put a gizmo onto your key which
compressed the resistor. The dash would light up, but the car wouldn't
crank. After being stuck there for 8 hours, a locksmith came out and cut me
a new key for $110 on the spot. Car fired up just fine. Sounds to me like
your problem is in the resistor being read by the car. I just had a key cut
at the dealer for $40 (using my VIN not the old key). I'd try that first.
Then replace the tumbler if it's worn out. Seems hard to believe though. I
have roughly 80,000mi on each of my cars and the tumblers work fine.
-Stan
I have over 100,000 miles on mine but I think I will go have a key cut by
the dealer because when I got the car they only had one key and it was the
original one very worn so I had 2 more made but they where cut from that key
so I'll try the dealer...
Thanx
--
Z˙RiX (<>..<>)
"sbright" < snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net> wrote in message
Another option that might be more reasonable is having a master
locksmith cut a "key to code." Rather then make a copy of your key, the
locksmith will measure the depth of each notch in your key, determine
what the original depth was for each pin position, then cut a new key
that will match the original. Like a key-to-code from the dealer this
will slow down tumbler wear in the lock. ... PJ
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"Key wrote:
How would he know what the original specs were? By measure how far the
tumblers
inside the lock cylinder move before bottoming out or something of the such?
the locksmith should be able to just look at the bitting
(cut-depths)
on the old key and read the correct factory bitting.
then, with the assistance of a code cutter,
transfer the correct factory bitting to a new key blank.
g'day
--
why ya think they call me "Key" ?
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Interesting stuff!
"Key wrote:
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