Durango engine trouble

Lean mixture, coughing, long crank time.... Check fuel pressure.

Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech

Lean mixture, coughing, long crank time.... Check fuel pressure.

Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech hmmm double post?

Sounds like a bad fuel pump. Check fuel pressure at idle, which will probably be normal. You really need to check them under a load. A chassis dyno is about the only way I know of to do that. I would check under the hood for the simple stuff - like loose vacume lines, loose throttle body, etc. If all that looks good, I'd replace the fuel pump. The filter is in the same place, if I remember correctly. Might as well change that, too.

I was sent this info from my Pop(he found it on the net) after I bought a Durnago:

"A periodic problem is failure of the Powertrain Control Module(PCM). Failure of the PCM may cause an intermittent stalling condition and can also prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the PCM is estimated at $530.00 for parts and $39.00 for labor. All price estimates are based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax."

Hope this helps, RC

I was sent this info from my Pop(he found it on the net) after I bought a Durnago:

"A periodic problem is failure of the Powertrain Control Module(PCM). Failure of the PCM may cause an intermittent stalling condition and can also prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the PCM is estimated at $530.00 for parts and $39.00 for labor. All price estimates are based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax."

Hope this helps, RC

LOL! Yeah. How would you suggest a person go about "checking for air bubbles"?

You guys were all wrong ;)

It was the coil

No air bubbles in fuel as far as I can tell ;)) Fuel pump is fine, too.

Swapped back OEM coil, and it runs as new. I also measured primary resistance on both coils, about 22Ohms on both... dunno how can I measure secondary winding. My idle is just a tad rough now - which was the reason why I 'upgraded' to Accel in the first place.

Now, I wonder how on earth can faulty coil account for smooth idle at first, then spluttering/missing during acceleration, and finally settle down to very rough idle? My only guess would be cross-induction caused by higher voltage... there actually is TSB out for 99 Durango covering ignition wires cross-induction. When I swapped back the original coil voltage went down and cross-induction stoppped. If so, why did it run just fine with Accel for several months???

Peter

A temperature sensitive connection (inside or outside) of the coil could cause this. There could be a problem with the Accel coils internal connections or one of it's external connections could have been corroded or loose. If it was an external connection, your swapping it with the origional would have cleaned that up and if it is internal, the coil is defective. When you increase RPM's of the engine, you increase the current flow which will heat up an improper or corroded connection and cause it to lose some or all of its ability to conduct and the coil output voltage will drop considerably if not fail completely and will stay this way until they cool down again.