I have spent several days up in the boonys after fixing the 86ish ram
problem (progressively corroding connection between egr solenoid and egr)
I am now going to get the other 86 /6 ram going (but the carb is in the
evil ram and they aren't good carbs anyway)
Does anyone know about a list of good candidate chevs that have 6's to
convert a /6 to electronic fuel injection? I plan on keeping this one.
and any other helpful ideas on this project?
The easiest way would be to contact either Clifford Performance
or Rance EFI < http://www.rancefi.com/
Both are pricey, btw.
Adapting a GM system could be more trouble that rebuilding the carbs which
makes me wonder why not rebuild the carbs? I've rebuilt many of them over
the yeas and would be glad to help you.
Thanks very much Budd.
I'll take that advice then. Is a single barrel Holley 1945 carb worth
fixing or ought I to try to put something else in it (the other 86Ram
with the better /6)? I can get a carb kit tomorrow when I get my hot
plug for the evil 86ish cylinder #5 and :-) my new chilton dakota manual
:-) from uap.
if i need help, i'll take you up on it. oh-- and the carb is squeaky
clean already -- lord knows i've had all winter to clean it up!
p.s. the evil one decided to bust a coolant hose today! (fixed now)
It's a very simple and dependable carburetor. Float level is simple: the
float top should just touch a straight edge ( ruler) laid across the top of
the fuel bowl ( cover removed). Set your idle mixture screw at 1 1/2 turns
open from lightly bottomed ( finger tight only!!!) and set your curb idle
screw at 2 turns tighter than first touch to the throttle lever. Depress the
vacuum break diaphragm gently (or apply vacuum. Be sure to you are moving
the diapragm as just moving the linkage will give a poor adjustment) and set
the choke plate opening to 3/16" -1/4". Set the choke unloader lever to
where it holds the choke wide open at full throttle.
The rest of the adjustments are set to repair kit specifications.
Make sure you have no vacuum leak between the carb and the manifold, but do
not use RTV sealant on the gaskets. Make sure all passages are clear with
When you hook up the choke well thermostat ( the thing on the manifold that
connects to the choke lever) remember on a cold engine it will close the
choke tight, but after the engine is warmed up (140-160 degrees F. or 7-10
minutes of driving) the choke should be wide open.
Just talk to it like you would if wanted your boyfriend to do something
special, and don't ever cuss it. It can be more stubborn than a fat old
Furthermore, why go GM when EFI from a 3.9 would do just fine and be
"calibrated" to the displacement of the /6?
Also, those carbs aren't real hard to rebuild, although if you happen to
have one of the goofy aftermarket smogged 1bbl's, they are a PITA to tune.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
You've convinced me :-) -- for now -- to rebuild <grn>
That year's 1bbls only came with my carb except in CA so I should be OK.
Once I've learned on this, I will play with the other half dozen I have
in the shed <grn> once blackfly season starts
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