No parasitic load. If the ignition is off there is no current flow (except
the door lock receiver but that's not been a problem even after several days
parked). If the switch is in the accessory position or the head lights left
on (in the time out period) or the cabin lights are in the time out period
not to mention the radio the van won't start (best you get is a click) in 10
or 15 min.
If I run the radio only (~2 amps measured) at the 15 min point it's iffy at
the 20 min point it's jump cable time.
We have a rack on the front of the van that's big enough to hold an ice
chest for tail gating. Put a HD truck battery there and ran the leads to
the van battery. No problem at an hour+ out. Only problem is the HD truck
battery won't physically fit inside the hood.
If we leave the ignition key in the lock (off position) the car is dead
(starter clicks in less than an hour) Using the HD truck battery the thing
will still start 8+ hours later. If we had just a bit more space we could
mount the HD truck battery but Dodge has filled that space with necessary
'stuff' that can't be moved. (When it comes to me Murphy was an optimist)
I'm trying to find a battery that will fit and work in our application.
Also looking for a mounting position to put in a cabin battery to run the
lights/radio etc and save the other battery for starting only. We have that
on a Class C RV --- works great especially when someone is playing the
entertainment system and wanders away for a few hours.
Don't get me wrong the vans are perfect for our main requirment (our
extended family is foster to adopt) so we have a *lot* of grand kids. Maybe
next time we should buy a school buss?
Several things. There is a fair amount of electronics that draw power
when the key is off. More than the door lock receiver.
With the engine off, key off, AT THE BATTERY what is the exact voltage
With the engine running, in idle, AT THE BATTERY what is the exact
voltage you read?
With the engine running, in 2000 RPM, AT THE BATTERY what is the exact
voltage you read?
Make these measurements at the battery, using a known accurate digital
Sorry for the delay in posting (I've been in the hospital for several
It seems most (all?) the aftermarket vendors and in some cases the dealers
data bases list several drop in replacement batteries that were classed as
~equals but are not.
In the end we went with the top of the line aftermarket replacement. (no I
don't know which one was installed but I do know it works)
Did a bit of digging and while the published specification on all
(recommended) drop in replacements are essentially the same. The real world
deep cycle charteristics (non published) of available batteries are vastly
It seems the drop in replacements batteries all have cca that are slightly
different but not significant in the performance but the deep cycle
charteristics are vastly different and unfortunately unpublished.
As to the test run. Since the van has been basically down for several
weeks my son arranged with a friend that has access to a aircraft power
system simulator and test jig. (High buck/high tech aero-space/industrial
design state of the art stuff)
In the end they ran a charteristics test of the vehicle as well as several
similar models. Ditto various batteries.
The van was found to be performing as expect based both on available
specifications and comparison test.
They did a cauterization test of several models (good sample found in the
employee parking lot) and found that all of low end recommended drop in
batteries none operated the vehicle(s) to cauterization/specification.
Thanks for all who responded.
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