Most likely - I believe they're the same size. But, in stock form, it's
going to feel like mush (ie. stock). The most noticeable change in
increased driveability comes from an aftermarket TC.
The stock TCs also won't stand up to the increased power. The LU clutch is
relatively weak, the stamped-steel cover won't hold up (it will warp), and
the looseness of the TC will lend itself to heat build-up.
Any of the big tranny guys: DTT, ATS, Suncoast. Match the TC and VB from
the same guys. Yes, it's expensive - but the results are so much more worth
the edge with juice is the most fun ive had since hitting puberty. ;-)
that said, i CAN feel that the torque converter isnt giving me everything
the juice is. would you recommend just the TC and VB or is there any
advantage to buying a complete tranny from DTT?
Nathan In Montana
I used a DTT tc and transmission in a plow truck a couple of years ago. It
was like night and day compared to factory. Give them a call and tell them
what you want, and I'm sure they will be of help.
Oh, the temp sensor should be on the line or port coming out of the
transmission, not the return to the pan.
The advantage of the complete transmission is never having to worry that you
might be tearing it up :)
It depends on what you're going to do with the truck. If you're going to
behave yourself with the Juice settings (what am I thinking? I _KNOW_ who
I'm talking to here!), then just a TC/VB upgrade will be fine.
But, if you're going to run it on level 5 all the time, smoking cars off the
line, and driving it like it's a race car, then you're going to want a
better-built transmission underneath you.
My transmission would have been dead a long time ago had I tried to use the
stock unit. I knew what I wanted my truck to do, so I sucked it up and
bought a whole transmission. It's still the best investment I've ever made
truck-wise. When the dyno guy called out 602HP, I couldn't stop grinning
the rest of the day. Heck, I still can't :)
thanks. while i dont plan to race it (due to weight it will haul
around...bed empy is 1000# and then figure another at least 1500# in tools
and supplies) i do enjoy putting it in 5 just before passing someone on the
...can i expect even more smoke after i install the banks monster exhaust
...what truck, and what mods?
Nathan In Montana
My twin turbos make 60psi of boost. That's a little more than the stocker
can make. It also makes 60 pounds of relatively COOL air, as opposed to the
super-heated air flow that a stock turbo would make at anything approaching
those boost levels.
It's not just about building boost - it's about doing it while keeping the
temps down. Now, you can do that with a big single turbo. The problem is,
it won't be able to get out of it's own way until it spools up. The
advantage of a small turbo is that it spools up quickly, but can't push as
much air, and can be over-spooled by the engine (hence the wastegate).
So, you combine the two in a compound setup. The small turbo spools
quickly, giving you better throttle response and power off the line. As
it's winding out, the bigger turbo is now spooled up, and "takes over".
You probably have a perfect example of this in your shop.... look at your
air compressor. It's probably a two-stage unit. The first stage compresses
to around 50-60psi or so - the second stage compresses up to 175psi.
Formula 1 Diesel - http://midatlanticdiesel.com
Head studs. Need more clamping force to keep the head on the block when
running high boost levels. Besides, they're a no-brainer to install when
you're swapping out injectors.
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