rocker pannels? --- question for nathan maybe?

hey guys I'm looking for some advice from you wielding and body gurus. we have a old Pontiac here in the garage that needs some new floor pans and rocker panels wielded in. the pans I know I can do no problem. its the rockers I have a question about.

do I need to put something like 1x1 tube in some sort of x fashion to support the body from twisting when I cut the rockers out. I realize that I want to cut then wield one side at a time.

Reply to
Chris Thompson
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If you have the interior completely stripped, you'll need to brace it every way you can think of. If you think it can move out of line in a certain direction, it probably can.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

that's my concern the floor pan is already out and the inside and bottom of the rocker is gone for the most part. he already has the panels as there was some rust holes on the outside just under the door that he knew about and was already planning the replacement.

this is on a restoration me and a friend are working on together.

Reply to
Chris Thompson

Oh darn.

You're gonna have find some way to find the correct dimensions for the rockers and the whole floor area.

One of the big problems with body-on-frame cars is the body has no real stiffness, unlike a unibody which can be made so it hardly moves when panels are cut out.

Can you find a similar car ( a same year B-O-P body should be close) and get the dimensions you need? Then jack it back to shape and weld in your braces.

Have you found a source for your panels? If it's a well reputed source, like Year One, then the panels themselves can help in fixing things up.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

yes we have the year one panels in hand. we have started with the pass side floor pan in removing what was left of it. we found the inner side of the rocker rotted as well, an unanticipated surprise but not totally unexpected as he already has the new rockers also in hand, also from year one.

and to help or maybe make things worse. this car is a sub frame car, you know the ones half unibody half frame rails front and rear.

Reply to
Chris Thompson

Is it bolt-in front sub-frame? If so, loosening it may let the panels go in easier. The back is gonna be tough unless the sub-frame actually holds the body in shape.

I have no personal experience with Year One, just reports from friends and magazine articles, but they're supposed to be accurate. Let me know what you think of their stuff.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

I strongly disagree! Do not unbolt the frame connector bolts or there is a good chance you will be unable to get anything straight on it imo. Is this a early f-bird?

Roy

Reply to
Roy

I won't argue, Roy. You're more the GM expert than I am. I was just doing my best to help as I could.

Reply to
Budd Cochran

Not looking to argue.

No expert but I've played with'em

Understood.

Having said that, the sub frame bolted to it will help hold things in alignment as he cut's and welds the floor and rockers together. He should probably block under the rear and front subs so it won't sag. Of course if he has a crash book with the spec's or perhaps a frame jig, not so big a deal. You are correct, year one has some good stuff.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

no crash book no frame jig nothing. the floor pan seems to test fit well

Reply to
Chris Thompson

I'd finish the floor to get some strength back into it before you touch the rocker's.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

sad news man. we decided to do exactly that. had a full length front pan and

4x8 sheet to do repairs in rear seat section (rust spots) when we cut the rear section the car dropped. seems the frame rail was rusted through, I mean all the way on the right rear. he has ordered a new frame rail rush shipped. when it arrives early next week we are going to load the car on my equipment trailer so it can go to the local frame & race shop. the frame was broken between the spring mounts and what little was left of the floor was actually holding the right rear of the car up. a disappointing find for sure. ill let you know what the frame shop has to say. for now we have stopped progress. seeing as there is now a spring mount above where the rear seat should be.
Reply to
Chris Thompson

Hmm not good at all. Would have thought the blocking would have supported it.

Might as well get both at this point.

Again what car is it? If it is a f-bird or camaro search around for one that has been back halved. They may still have the stock frame around.

You are going to need spec's and numbers now. While he is going nuts ordering parts you might as well get new sub frame mount rubbers and bolts. You are also going to have to decide if it is worth doing. At this stage it can start to get real pricey, real fast. Have you done one of these deals before?

Roy

Reply to
Roy

yes I've done frame up with my uncle once before. on a 67 triumpth tr6 nice car. this firebird I think is going to take a lot to make it right. fortunately he's not looking to go show ready or I would not have agreed to help in some stages of the restoration. I anticipated no major problems with the floor pans the rocker panels I've talked him into taking that to a pro. especially while they have to work on the rear subframe anyways. I anticipate him getting a little deeper then he really wants to by the time its through, but I don't think it will detour him. I think that blocking would have worked well had the rail not been unknowingly rusted completely through. but point is its going to a frame shop and is going to be made right before we go any further. I'm going to talk to him and see if I cant get him to have the frame/bodyshop go ahead with pans and rockers while they have it. makes life simpler for us. he wants to paint it himself so we will see how that turns out.

Reply to
Chris Thompson

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