Ping > Nathan - welding question

hi jim, what thickness is your tubing? what process will you be using to weld them together? based upon what youve given me so far i recommend cutting the tubing at 45 degree angles so that the two pieces will come together to form a 90 degree angle. lay them flat on a steel work table and position them together and clamp them to the table. if you dont have access to a table, using another piece of tubing will work, just lay it all out so that it forms a big triangle and use a large c-clamp to clamp the pieces together. personally i prefer the 11" vice grip c-clamps with swivel pads for clamping the two together because the swivel pad assures even positioning. tack the pieces together with tacks on each corner before welding and when you weld do opposite sides first. tacking is the secret to prevent distortion....if tacked adequately with clamps it should be fine.

Wall is 3/16". I will weld with a Craftsman 20559 wire feed mig w/map gas. Are the 45's neccessary? Not sure how accurate I can cut a 45 with my chop saw. I do want strength... my 35's are heavy.

JimG

distortion....if

what i meant by that is doing this.

the 20559 is capable of 1/4" so you should be fine there.

nah, the 45's arent "necessary" at all.....although they do add strength (more surface contact) just butting the horizontal to the vertical piece will be plenty strong also. it just cleans up the look a little but if thats not an issue dont bother with it.

I considered a swing design off one corner, but I have yet to see one that holds up at the swivel point. Most will bind up or develop slop (not that this one will be perfect either). The receiver design can be easily removed for a better design in the future. At this point, the only other thing I use the receiver for is one of those carry-all racks. The spare would then have to be thrown to the side and left behind.

JimG

proposed design:

your drawing confused me. it appears as if you want the tire between the vertical support and the tailgate?

how thick is that plate? you could make that work, but im curious why you prefer that over something more like this for simplicity.

The plate is also 3/16". Without the offset (back to the Jeep), it would put the tire to far out (from the Jeep)... it's going to affect my departure angle regardless... just want to minimize what sticks out. With the offset on to the bumper, it will help carry the weight (notice the top tube sits flat on the angle iron bumper).

JimG

Thanks for the help Nathan!

JimG

I was thinking of a hybrid between the triangular design with the pivot on one corner of the bumper, and then also utilizing the stock CJ upper pivot and latch for added stability.

Maybe just reinforce the stick CJ carrier to support.

Just a thought.

Tom

The Ox (Oxide) '86 CJ7, 258 I6, 4 spd, 3" Lift, 33x12.5 BFG's '96 XJ PMS '01 ZJ TS

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In regards to the search for the perfect swingout hinge....

I also considered many designs, because I also become annoyed by things that rattle and/or come loose. As I was scratching my head, wondering what I could use that would be durable, I happened to glance at my bench, where there just happened to be a throw-away rear driveline out of an S10 pickup. I thought to myself that the Ujoint is custom made to handle large twisting loads.

I ended up using the whole driveline instead of just the yoke, because I thought it looked cooler/more white trashy. I get many compliments on the driveline/swingout tire carrier, usually with a good laugh from the complimenter.

Jerry

no problem brother, let me know if i can help out at all.

Hey Jerry,

Got any pics?

Brian

Post pics please. I am working on making some bumpers / tire carriers too, but that is the big problem, how to make them not rattle and droop. I have heard of using a trailer axle to pivot from, are you thinking along those lines?