The lighter the trailer the easier it is to pull, stop and buy gas for. It's
that simple. The longer it is the harder it is to go in and out of parking
lots as the rear will drag easier. With a long trailer it's harder to find a
parking spot, harder to maneuver in a camp ground, harder to store. My
advice is to get the smallest, lightest trailer you can live with.
Towing capacity is a junk number. It often assumes a 150 lb. driver, no cargo,
and a 1/2 tank of fuel. Everything that goes into the vehicle has to be deducted
from that number.
A lot of veteran RVers use this formula to determine a good match of trailer to
GVWR (Tow Vehicle) + GVWR (Trailer) <= GCWR (Tow Vehicle)
Using this formula generally results in a setup that tows at 75-80% of the
"Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't"
You can tow almost any large trailer with a little garden tractor. It is just a
matter of how fast, and how far before it breaks down.
I wonder what the true towing capacity of an elephant is?
"I love cats. I just can't eat a whole one by myself."
Forklifts, ATVs and small tractors are commonly used to shuffle trailers
around storage yards and dealerships. Forklifts work particularly well
because of the short turning radius. These vehicles will do it, they're
slow, and it is usually over fairly flat ground. A great example of a tow
vehicle being overloaded, and people saying, "Oh, yeah, that Beavis will
pull that trailer." It will PULL it, but you just gotta hope it isn't in
anything but a straight line and not very fast. Same as mismatched loads on
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