Somehow the passenger side disk brake pads froze completely wearing
one pad down to the metal. Had to beat them out of the caliper. Am
replacing the old pad retainers and shims with new honda parts.
Discovered the piston boot has a rip in it. There is no fluid leak so
the piston seal is okay.
Can I replace the boot without completely removing the piston? What
lube should I use on the piston, and caliper bolts. Is Syl Glyde ok.
Been a while since I have seen your posts Teeger - thanks for all the
support you provide.
If the pads on one side wore quicker than the other, then I would say
you have a seized piston and that caliper needs to be replaced. Since
you should do them in pairs I would recommend you do that. The
remanufactured Cardone costs about $50-60 each.
I had a similar problem with my 2000 Honda and I subscribed to
ALLDATAdiy.com and it has been very useful. I am handy and like to do
things myself and this subscription gives me diagnosis, repair, TBSs,
recalls and labor times.
Check it out - I copied the link below for you.
The piston exerts equal pressure on both sides of the disc but the
slider pins will prevent the pressure from 'unloading' if they get
seized up. The whole caliper needs to be unbolted and hung from a hanger
so you can inspect / repair BOTH the top and bottom slider pins. CR-V
gets the same problem if not serviced correctly.
When I removed the caliper to get the pads out, the bottom slider pin
was really hard to get out - had to spray it with WD-40. The grease
on the bottom slider pin was black and hard. Will replace the slider
clips, clean the pins and the interior of pin holder, apply Sil Glide
to the pins and see if the piston is stuck - don't think it is. Will
also replace the piston boot.
Oh just as a note in passing - replaced the worn out pads on the
passenger side only with ceramic pads - all Autozone had in stock -
the ceramic pads have more stopping power than do standard Honda pads
- pulls left a bit when I hit the brakes - will replace the Honda pads
on the drivers side with same ceramic pads - know any hard braking
would produce a skid - no adventures wanted.
although it's tempting to use, wd40 wrecks brake rubbers. not
immediately, but if you check back in a couple of weeks, chances are,
the rubber will be swollen and will tear easily. you need to use
silicone lubes all the way, unless you're replacing everything of course.
the best lube to use is "m77". silicone and molybdenum disulfide. it's
supposed to be used in original assembly, but by the sound of things,
someone cut corners.
you can buy it from honda. failing that, only use a silicone lube.
personally, i think sil-glyde sucks.
never ever change just one side. ever. totally unbalanced. major
One note on the newer model Accords. My sister has a new 08 EX and
just hit over 15k miles. I checked the rear pads and the outer pads
had about 30% left on them while the inner pads are almost completely
shot. I posted up on driveaccord.net and it seems like the Gen 7 and 8
have this problem. Looks like Honda needs to go back to the drawing
board on the rear brake design.
Same thing on brand new CR-V's. Dry slider pins seizing. Honda must be
forgetting to pump the grease inside the slider pin holes when they
assemble them. Very bad way to assemble a new vehicle.
My bottom slider pin in the caliper with the inside pad worn out and
plenty of pad left on the outside, was really hard to get out. Grease
was baked - took lots of WD-40.
What grease do you suggest - will Sil Glide a Napa silicone grease be
best - any other suggestions for high temp grease.
the official honda solution is something called "m77". it's heavy duty,
very good, but expensive. contains MoS2 so can handle heavy loads.
having had some terrible problems with silglide, [turns into a sticky
glue] i say avoid it. as a minimum, need to be a proper silicone grease
to preserve the rubbers.
Some people on driveaccord.net have been mentioning that it is just
the design of the caliper being one piston which is causing this to
occur. I'm not 100% convinced that is the case but on a new car I
sometimes wonder if it is true.
that's way too simplistic. not only are single piston calipers are
highly reliable if manufactured and maintained properly, they offer one
extremely important design advantage over any other caliper design - the
ease with which you can accommodate negative scrub radius, and thus make
the car safer to drive.
to achieve negative scrub, the wheel disk needs to be highly dished, and
the distance between the center line of the bearing and the wheel bolt
circle minimized. conventional dual piston calipers tend to be much
thicker and thus make negative scrub harder to achieve. [after-market
multi-piston calipers use opposing pistons in compact calipers by having
short travel, shallower pads, and more frequent pad change intervals.]
there's no more reason a single piston brake will seize on its slider
than one piston on a multi-piston caliper will seize. and in practice,
often less so.
Got a reman Cardone caliper including the part that it attaches to for
$40 from Bumper to Bumper. Easy replacement - now am replacing the
other side. The prices varied for this reman caliper + all the way up
to $75 - so check several sources before buying. Cardone appears to
use a white silicone grease on their slider pins.
Thanks for all the help.
well, white stuff certainly doesn't have black MoS2 in it! i say keep
an eye on that puppy. better yet, take it back and go for the more
expensive ones. there is usually a reason for the difference in price.
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