OT: bonding fiberglass to metal

Something I never have done before, and never learned to do. Something that the guy I used to work for at the body shop kept a secret from me (we no longer talk).

At the swap meet I picked up for FREE a used fiberglass cowl induction scoop. Which has old bondo all around the flange.

I want to clean it up, and bond it to the metal hood on my 84 C-10 pick up. I decided recently to make the 84 a hot rod pick up, since Irecently bought a 1990 3/4 ton (6 lug) with a fuel infected (injected) 350. Which I plan to keep as my haul truck.

A free fiberglass cowl, on a american hood is better then a tiawan made goodmark steel cowl hood in my book. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig
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Charles:

Use a 36 grit grinding disk on an air grinder, roughen up the bottom of the flange of the scoop. Lay the scoop on the hood and center it well, tape it down well and crayon the outline.

Now measure the flange of the scoop, and make an outline to the inside carefully, and don't grind any farther than the inside outline. Grind way out on the outside because you can taper it in easier that way, and you won't have to keep on grinding.

Shred up a small amount of fiberglass matting, and get the epoxy fiberglass resin. Marson is my personal favorite! Mix up the matting and the resin, after you driller a few holes through the scoop flange and the hood for pop rivets.

Paint the resin and matting mixture onto the flange of the scoop, lay it down and rivet it on.

Let it dry overnight. Then sand any exposed glass, lay up your first coat with matting and resin for a crack free base, then use Duraglass or another brand of short haired glass filler for the second coat. Then you should only need a coat or two of filler to finish it off. Filler sands a lot easier than glass, but has the strength of shit!

Doesn't it?

LOL

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Thanks RF! My business partner insists you canbond fiber glass and steel. As I never learned how (im still a young pup per say) For every thing I know how to do peoperly, there are three to fifty that I dont. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

"Refinish King"

use the same grit on the metal hood as you do on the scoop?

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Reply to
S.S.I.N.

We all learn by asking:

I'm an old fart, and just returning what the old timers taught me when I was a young devil, that refused to go to school. Hung out in the body shops and auto repair shops on my way to school. Then after my father broke my ass, I'd watch him. He was a real old timer! The type of mechanic that could fix anything.

So I "Try" to be like him.

If you need any help, give a shout!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Why not?

Better than using a 50 grit and heating up the metal till it buckles, and the glass till it melts and balls up.

Respectfully submitted,

Refinish King

PS I used to make molds for fiberglass hoods, after I bonded the scoop on one, for popular designs for Camaros, Chevelles and some couch! Mopars in the mid

70's to mid 80's. Bumpers too.

Reply to
Refinish King
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"Refinish King"

just checking. i've heard of people using different grits. and swearing you need a crossing pattern ground on the metal

Reply to
S.S.I.N.

I learned the hard way. My dad had the tools, but taught me very little about them. I can remeber being a kid and just tearing stuff apart, then reasembling it. I eventially learned how to diagnose a bad part and replace it, or in some cases rebuild it.

I learned alot from some really great folks. Hanging around shops, getting a job in a body shop, working in salvage yards, and working with people like my current business partner. Who is a ASE Master Tech (a few of them come around my shop), as wekk as his circule of friends (all car people).

Although we tend to bump heads at times because most of them went to trade schools and colleges to learn, where I never did.

Any time you want to stop buy, let me know. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

When you're running a grinder over the metal:

you can't help but get a cross hatch pattern as you remove the paint, and you have to keep moving from one area to another. To avoid heat build up, which would turn a beautiful Camaro scooped hood, into a stretched lump, then the expletives and a shrinking hammer won't help, because of the bracing behind.

Then you have to get creative with an Oxy/Acetylene torch and a wet rag to shrink it, and then you know you'll need filler.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

That's the one problem I had with the ASE guys:

They thought because you didn't have the time for the tests, because you were too busy running the business that paid them. You were an asshole!

Then when they got stuck on a complex diagnostics job, or had an automatic they did for the second time, there was no way I'd let them do it again, so it could get done a fourth time. So I've been degraded by the college boys and the ASE Boys, but all in my area respect me now. Because they know I shoot straight, If I'm right. I'm right! When I'm wrong, I say thank you for pointing that out!

We all can't know everything, so to be humble when you're wrong, is to be a good learner, to be aggressive when you're right, is to not let anyone piss in your face!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

"Refinish King" you have to keep moving from one area to another. To avoid heat build up,

damb that would suck.

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Reply to
S.S.I.N.

You learn from both books, doing the job and asking folks that have done it before.

I remember when I got my 1979 Trans Am and the alternator went bad. I told the guy in the lab I was going to buy a rebuilt and he laughed. He said, "Want to learn a lost art???"

He then showed me how to properly service a Delco 10SI alternator from soup to nuts, testing each part (even though I replaced them all). It's a piece of cake to me now. I even went and got one for the '84 Olds out of a junkyard, got all the parts and did it while he watched. He was impressed at his "new student". LOL.

I work with a couple of guys that are meticulous and we don't work in the "street" side of the trade (we are in the office).

Nonetheless, I always bring in a project or two to putter with in the laboratory or shop. It always makes for nice conversation, a couple of guys to lend a hand and everyone learns. Good enviornment!

In turn, I can help many of them out with parts and the like as I have vast knowledge here, so we all help each other out :).

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...

Reply to
Bigjfig

It's great when someone doesn't let a certification go to their head!

I like to work with people, because as I said before: "There is always something you can learn"

Even if it's a job you've done a million times, someone might know a trick you don't. I just don't like someone who degrades because you don't have the time to take a certification test, then you have to re-do a job you paid him a good flat-rate for.

Refinish King

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Reply to
Refinish King

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