98 Explorer sohc 4.0 timing fix

Hello. I have been searching the web for weeks looking for information on the timing chain and intake manifold fixes on these 4.0's. I have had the truck since it had 98,000 miles on it, it now has

150,000. It had a light rattle at startup and has always had a small vacuum leak up top. The chain rattle has progressed till it rattles most of the time now (front left side of motor). A few weeks ago the truck lost almost all its power it runs very rough at idle or at speed. It is not missing its cutting out. Sometimes before it gets warm the brakes don't want to work like it has a vacuum hose leak. I am not sure if the chain is lose because of the tensioner and cassette or if it has jumped time or if the intake seals have failed. The intake looks like an easy fix. I have seen many mixed reports on the chain fix. Some say it can be done over the weekend by anybody with some mechanical abilities. Some say you cant do it because you have to have a special $300.00 tool from ford. And still others say you have to pull the motor to do it. Any ideas? Even if it turns out to be the intake I would still like to do the front chain fix while I have it down. The truck is high mileage but it still runs strong and drives great and does not use any oil. The people that have posted that they did the fix themselves pretty much stop there with no explanation of how they accomplished it and I cant find any site with good information on how to do it. I would like to do this next weekend if I can gather enough information. Thanks
Reply to
jones
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As far as my understanding goes (and I've done my research as well) there are actually 3 chains. One in the front. One in the center and one in the back of the engine. The front one has a timing chain tensioner and guide. If the tensioner goes bad it's a rather easy fix. You just unscrew it from the top of the engine head (it's a black plastic tube that seats under the intake) and screw a different one in. Anything else will require pulling the engine out. You might be able to change the chain guide on the front without pulling the engine out but I won't call it a weekend mechanic job.

Reply to
zoti

Awwwww, that clears a lot up for me. I thought you had to pull everything to replace the tensioner like you would to replace a guide or chain. Now i am hoping it is just the tensioner that needs replacing. Is there any way to tell if the guide needs replacing without pulling everything off the front of the motor? I found this thread on explorerforum

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very helpfull.It looks like i can fix the intake and tensioner easily at one time ifthat is all i need. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Reply to
jones

Yeah. I saw that thread on explorerforum before. Very helpful.

I would try to do this fix and see if the noise goes away. In your case since it has been making the noise for a while I would also do an oil change and take a close look at the oil for any metal parts.

Reply to
zoti

I pulled it apart yesterday (took about two hours) and called the Ford dealer to order the 00m12 kit. $42.00 for upper and lower gaskets, tenisoner and some odds and ends. It will be in and I will have it back together today. Oil change sounds like a really good idea. If this works I will be a happy camper.

Reply to
jones

Let us know the result.

Reply to
zoti

It took about an hour to put it back together. There was already a plastic restriction plug in the hole so I guess it has been done before. I got it back together and it runs the same as it did. I think maybe the chain cartridge is broken. When I look trough the filler cap I can see something red that looks like a piece of plastic cockeyed in there about 4 inched deep. I tried to get pictures of it but no go. The ford dealer says the power lose is caused by the slop in the chain and maybe it jumped time. It starts and dies easy, no dragging of the starter or dieseling at shutdown. It runs rough cold and when warm but does not die. Once in a great while the brakes are hard to push like it has a bad vacuum leak. It has suddenly started running fine for a couple of miles a few times since all this has started The only thing I can think of to do is change the cartridge and see if that does the trick. I hope I can pick up a timing tool on Ebay for cheap. Tune in next week for "The rest of the story" LOL

Reply to
jones

Reply to
zoti

I have had this done by ford and thereare two hydraulic adjusters one each side in the UK the parts were =A340 each so its likely to be $40. Its not difficult but at the same time you can have the dianostics done to see what else is wrong or OK.

Ed

Reply to
edrickhard

I have had this done by ford and thereare two hydraulic adjusters one each side in the UK the parts were =A340 each so its likely to be $40. Its not difficult but at the same time you can have the dianostics done to see what else is wrong or OK.

Ed

Reply to
edrickhard

I have had this done by ford and thereare two hydraulic adjusters one each side in the UK the parts were £40 each so its likely to be $40. Its not difficult but at the same time you can have the dianostics done to see what else is wrong or OK.

Ed

Reply to
zoti

I did a few a while back and I have to say its not an easy " do it yourselfer" job

Valve cover and timing cover/water pump p/s pump and bracket have to come off Taking radiator out gives you more room to work You need special tools to remove dampner and to hold the cranck and cam in place because the gears don't have slots. It is a B*tch to get the metal cassette back in and everything lined up

Don't forget to drop the lower oilpan and get the broken pieces out of the oil pump pick-up tube if pieces are missing from old cassette

Is yours a 4x4 ??? IIRC you had to remove the balance shaft chain also

I think warranty paid about 7 or 8 hours , after doing a couple and some short cuts you could beat that time but its still alot of work.

Good luck

Reply to
JohanB

Well bugger all. I can get the parts for under 200 bucks and could do the repairs but I cant get the tools needed to time it. The ford dealer here in town does not even have the tools. I am about to set this big baby on fire and roast some weenies or something. At 300 for the tools and 200 for parts I guess it will be cheaper and easer to stick a motor in it. I found one on ebay with 72,000 miles for

500 bucks plus shipping. All the yards in my part of the country want 800 for a motor with 120,000 to 160,000 miles. Its hard to believe someone would build a motor and not even bother to put marks on it so it could be put back in time if anything ever happened to it. Really sad to because the motor is still strong and would probably run another 50 or 75 thousand miles if it weren't for the idiots that designed the timing system for it.
Reply to
eBlade

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