Brake Types

I took a look at my brake pads on all four wheels and darned if it isn't time to replace them. I was wondering what kind of pads are recommended, assuming I go down to Kragen or Napa Auto Parts (Napa being more expensive, and I can get a 10% discount at Kragen)

I don't want to spend too much, maybe around $40-$50 each for front and back. I used to get Raybestos brand for smaller cars I've owned, is this a decent set of brakes for an SUV, or should I go with something Bendix or Beck/Arnley.

Or does brand matter as long as their Semi-Metallic?

I will also be taking the rotors in to be turned since they are a little groovy.

And one question about the rear calipers, I have a regular caliper spreader, but a friend of mine said that Ford's rear disc brake calipers rotate in their place as they plunge out over use, and need a special tool to rotate them back in (like a screw) as you compress them, otherwise they will not retract. Is this the case in my '96?

Much Thanks in Advance!

-Ian

1996 XLT 4x4 125,000 miles
Reply to
IanCT
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Ian, I recently put raybestos ceramic pads on my '99 w/80K and they work like a champ. Since I had bought the car used, I put new rotors on and will eventually take the old ones down to have them turned. The process was simple, but I did learn one thing, if you're referring to a chilton's, they'll have you squeeze the cylinder in with a c-clamp, but be sure and loosen the bleeder nipple a little before doing so or you'll actually cause some other problems w/the abs. I had to have my ABS bled because I didn't do so, and it still doesn't work right. I'm actually thinking the new rotors are the problem because I"ve replaced the sensors, so I'll have them turned and try that out, but just wanted you to be aware that what you do could possibly affect the ABS. It could also be that since my car has 80k miles on it, it may have been a coincidence but I'm a cause and effect guy. I caused it, and I affected it I'm pretty sure! What I noticed happening after I had redone the brakes was a scrunch and pulsating of the pedal as I came to slow stops, definitely the ABS kicking in. That made me suspect the sensors, but since I've got 2 new ones and everything's clean at their insert points, I don't think it's those. I'm hoping its rotors, but if not, then it could be my valve or pump or something. For now, I've just disconnected the sensor until I get it fixed, the car stops on a dime.

Anyhow, sorry for the long post but I wanted you to be aware of what happened to me on a relatively simple job!

Reply to
WC

Hi Walter, thanks for your notes, I definately appreciate it.

I can understand why you would need to loosen the bleeder nipple so no back-pressure goes into the ABS system and could possibly cause a problem, even the one you describe. Using a C-Clamp is what I used to do on previous brake jobs, never done one on a vehicle with ABS though. Looks like I will continue to use Raybestos, I just haven't done so in a while and wanted to know what anyone else might be using.

Thanks again!

-Ian

Reply to
IanCT

Well guys, I've done exactly that (squeezed the cylinders while replacing front pads) and got the same ABS fake activation at slow stops. Further, ABS would retest after each stop, as the speed would reach 10-15kph (you can hear faint whine from the ABS control unit). After few DIY inspections with no result I took the truck to a mechanic shop and they diagnosed failed wheel speed sensor. They told me that Ford recommended both sensors replaced, but they did only the failed one and advised me to come back if problems reoccur. That was in mid-March, and there were absolutely no braking problems since :-) This was just to convey my experience... Z.

Reply to
Zbig

Interesting.... I haven't, nor can I find, any reference to replacing wheel speed sensors in pairs. More over, there is no need to replace these sensors in pairs since, in the grand scheme of things, they are quite separate even though they are parts of the same system.

I will admit that you Yanks are pretty ballsy..... patriotic to a T but a great number (no insults intended here) think anything for a buck is OK.

Something I might add..... when I explain something to a customer (obviously someone better versed in academia or marketing) I often leave it at a point where I expect the question "Why?" or perhaps "How?"....... Somehow, I often receive a thinly veiled "I see....." look that translates out to "I see that I have no idea what you said or why you said it but I don't wanna look like an academic or sumpin'". If someone tells you something, don't be afraid to ask why...... a plausible explanation, in laymans terms (though some sort of model might make it easier) should be forthcoming. If you receive a trail of ummmms and ahhhhs, there may be reason for concern.

I feel a deep sympathy for our bretheren south of the 49th since they appear to have little in the way of government regulation over the people that have the greatest effect on vehicle safety. Here in Canada, the effect is., granted, minimal. But it still goes well beyond the scope of truly "free" enterprise. At least, in most provinces, we need to demonstrate the ability to do more than swing a hammer and squeeze a plier.

I digress..... when faced with a buying decision, ask questions..... make sure you get good answers. When faced with a said you need to spend more money scenario, expect a GOOD answer. Yes, it happens that I recommend replacing parts according to judgement. I need to separate customers..... who wants it fixed absolutely right and I'm not comong back for this problem again, from the I'm short on cash and I need to roll the dice a bit so I can make ends meet, again from the I'm a cheap SOB and I don't deserve to ever have a car run as good as it can....but I will complain about how you screwed me by trying to please me.

For those who wonder... yes, there are charlatans out there. Choose your mechanic the same way you choose your doctor. Just remeber that 50% of all doctors graduated in the bottom half of their class.

Reply to
Jim Warman

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