Only in rip off city...it's not like......oh tires??? these are hydralic
/mechanical devices...they could concieveably both go bad at the same time
but just because you're replacing one isn't an automatic replace
both....bitch like hell at them threaten and scream...probably won't do ya
much good but maybe you'll feel a little better....
i dont know about calipers, but when i used to do brake work on the
older cars if you had one wheel cylinder go out you would also replace
the other.. the theory for this is that they were weak and if you put a
new one or rebuild just one then the other one will go out.. dont know
if this is also the case for calipers but it might be????
Well the drum type brakes with "cylinders" are an entirely different story.
As the rubber "piston" moves down it's bore it leaves a deposit behind it
and when relining the brakes (replacing the brake shoes) as you back the
adjusters off to make room for the full thickness of the brake lining the
wheel cylinder "piston" or "cup" is forced back over these "deposits"
potentially ripping the "feather" edge that seals the fluid into the
cylinder and causing, eventually a wheel cylinder leak and brake grabs,
doesn't work, brakes uneven, makes a hell of a mess, and is downright
dangerous. So in the old days of self-energizing, (bendix?) type brakes
wheel cylinders were either "rebuild" or replaced at preferably every brake
job. The new disk brake calipers are an entirely different story.....just
had a thought....maybe they thought the calipers were seized when they tried
to compress the pistons back into the bore while the brake resvoir cap was
still on...fluid doesn't compress.....must remove a substantial amount of
brake fluid before performing disk brake reline or at least take the damn
cap off....after all no positive pressure is maintained on disk brakes as
were the drum brakes...(2psi If I remember right) because the pressure seal
in disk brakes is performed by an O ring type thingy around the piston and
pressed into the bore mechanically....
whew....long winded but that should give you a little more than a basic
understanding of brakes....
Let me guess, you went to a chain automotive store and more or
less told them to fix whatever was needed? Bad choice.
You may or may not have needed callipers. Buts its sure a high
profit item for them. I hope they did not sell you loaded ones
and then charged you for the brake pads. When taking your car
into these places, always tell them to call for authorization to
proceed on any repair over what was initially agreed upon.
Yes, shops do sometimes find more bad parts upon tear down.
but many shops (especially chain stores that make there money
on parts sales) may pad the list to pad their profit. Especially if
they think you won't question them about it. Beware also on these
so called lifetime warranty's. They may cover the cost of the parts with
whatever is cheapest , but they will hose you for the labor.
Why was the car in for brake work? Noise? Lack of stopping power?
Pulling? I would want to see the pads before authorizing further
work. Chances are it may not have need callipers at all.
That said, callipers usually last a long time. I had one sticking
on my taurus, and changed just one and it was just fine. As long
as the boot was intact and it went in and our without binding,
i would not have done #2. If you had a car that was pulling and
one set of pads was worn much more than the other, that's a sure
sign of trouble on that axle.
Scott, you got that one right! This is the local Good Year shop. I have
heard all kinds of horror stories about this place in other states in the
past, and what do I do? I bring it right in there. Man, talk about a
My 1st adventure with these folks is still continuing. My air condition
on the 99 Sable stopped working. So, I bring it in 1st time. They fill
it charge me $45, and tell me they don't see a leak. Month or so passes,
and a/c stops working again. Bring it back. This time it's a $1200 air
compressor repair (they replace compressor, and accum and liquid line).
Winter goes by where I don't use the a/c, and now summer hits and a/c
doesn't work. This time I take it to Ford along with the invoice from
Good Year. They tell me that it's another $1200 to fix the evac leak
because it is inside the dash which they have to take apart. Great!
I show them the GoodYear invoice. The mechanic at Ford tells me that
they probably just guessed at the compressor. Also he said that you
never replace the accum and liquid line (a $230 charge). Also that they
did not bolt a line down which would have caused it to wear and leak.
So, I take it back to GoodYear to see if they give me the same story.
They still can't find the leak. So, they recharged, and added purple dye
and told me to bring it back when it blows warm again. They charged me
$45 again. I didn't tell them what Ford told me, as I want to see if
they come up with the same $1200 repair again, and then I will attempt to
explain to them that they did not fix the original leak. The Ford
mechanic told me that he has never seen both parts go at the same time,
and that when a compressor goes there is usually black around the area
where the compressor was. Mine is clean.
These places have you over a barrel though. I'm sure it will be almost
impossible to resolve this without me spending $1200 again to get it
fixed once and for all.
All I can say is AKRON, OHIO....Good year corporate office....have ford
mechanic document "normal" repair mistakes and keep this....if ya yell loud
enough and to the right people...it'll probably get fixed...btw...did or did
not ford replace dash evaporator...it they did...and it's still messing
up...better find another tree to bark up....
I paid Ford $90 to diagnose the problem. I did not want to proceed with
the repair until after GoodYear folks had the opportunity to give the
same diagnoses. Plus, $1200 is a little tight for me now, since I'm
still paying off the $1200 from the previous repair. I may have to enjoy
the FL summer without a/c until I can afford it.
Right now, I am waiting till the car blows warm air again, so that I can
bring it back as instructed. Ford says that it was leaking as fast as he
could fill it. Seems like an easy thing to find if what he says is true.
Well if you've been to ford and they've diagnosed....then just take it back
to Goodyear.....blowing cold or warm...they dropped the ball and the 1200
you paid for the compressor was a "donation" to goodyear...it didn't fix the
problem....had friend go to pep boys for an ac recharge after 3 trips he got
pissed...called pep boys corporate...they sent mechanic from southern
california to sacramento and the is mech from southern california did a
complete 134a conversion to his van...seems like the local yokels were
recharging a R22 system with 134A...replaced compressor, accumulator,
orifice tube, flushed complete system, recharged...at no cost to
him...imvoice listed all parts at retail price.....over $1000 and amount due
was $0 they did it as a warranty item....all shops have some kind of
warranty and if they blew it they'll have to eat it...if they did the job
right the first time they wouldn't have to do it again.....well you've got
the rock and they are between it and a hard space...swing fast, hard and
accurately.....go get 'em dude...I quit wrenchin' for a livin cuz every shop
I worked for ended up pushing volume instead of quality..and don't forget if
the mechanic is on comission...and a lot are....the bigger each ticket is
the more he makes...can make a serious difference in how he does repairs if
it's the first of the month and he's got to make that house payment, car
payment, braces for the kids teeth, payment on his new
truck...etc,etc,.....it's sad but it's a fact we can't ignore...
====================A month or two and it blows hot from leaking is a pretty big leak and
someone should be able to find it. Sounds like they might be on the lazy
side looking for it. If it really is the evap core or they cant find it I
would explore the use of 134A with leak sealer in it. I have used it a few
times with very good results and know another guy who swears by it. Ask
around and see if you can find a different mechanic. Im in CA and you can
buy 134A in a can with the sealer, or a small can of sealer/oil by itself.
It says its brand "interdynamics". I put this stuff in my nephews honda as a
last resort (before buying an expensive compressor) that was blowing the
freon out the front compressor seal in a day. that was 2 years ago! still
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