I would say no but---- I am the guy who 30 years ago told a
Mexican truck driver that he could not replace a burned
crank in a 350HP Cummins Diesel in a cabover Peterbilt
without removing the engine. They bought bearings, crank,
gaskets and a couple of rods and, worked on it in the
parking lot that night. When I got to work the next
morning, they had it running with a recon crank. That would
have been 60+ hours in our shop with all the right equipment
to pull it out and rebuild the engine. I have no idea how
the two of them handled that 420 lb crank.
What about any front suspension components or the exhaust manifolds and
pipes? If this can be done you might still want to have the ability to
raise and lower the engine in the car, either with a floor jack
underneath or with a hoist hooked up to it. Not taking the engine out
will save you the hassle of dealing with unbolting the tranny and
exhaust and all the other wires, hoses, etc. that are connected to it,
but will it present other problems not worth the hassle? You were
planning on torquing everything down and checking crank/rod bearing
clearances underneath the car? I guess it can be done. Most things
can when getting to work depends on it.
Both my chiltons and haynes manuals said I couldn't take the tranny out
without being attached to the engine on my 90 escort but I did. Got it
back in, too.
Don't forget to drain the oil first. ;>
Because he wanted to replace the crank with the engine in the car.
Seems ass backwards doing it that way, he should pull the engine out
and instead, as you suggested. I was pointing out the futility of
leaving the engine in.
Perhaps you can just grind the crank in the chasis. They used to do that
years ago. In the 50s and 60s, my dad spent about half his work time doing
Of course, not many people do this anymore.
Actually, the grinding wheel assembly thing was a like an electric drill and
a fine stone at the end where the drill bit would be. It was held in place
by a belt or loop that went over connecting rod journal. I am sure there was
some way of resurfacing the stone so that is was perfectly flat and would
line up with the crank properly. I think there was something to help get
There was also a device that put under one of the drive wheels. It has a
motor that turned the drive wheel, which in turn caused the crank to turn
(of course, the other drive wheel had to be locked to be on the ground with
blocks on either side.
Modern trucks and cars require too much precision these days for this to be
useful. Besides, the truck motors usually go like 500,000 between rebuilds,
and there is much more to be done than just the rod journals. But, in the
old days, it was quite useful (and profitable). I think my dad hasn't done
this for 10 or 15 years.
Anyone knows of a tool that can be attached to the crankshaft in that one
journal, with cutting blades of sorts, that you can turn as in a
rachetwrench, grinding it? It could attach to the end of the connecting rod
and then you could crank the engine a few times as necessary. Anything that
would allow me to grind the journal with the engine in the car would be
Taking the oil pan out would be easy but removing the engine it's a
You can't grind it in the chasis. You have to get rid of the dust and grit.
Plus, there is not nearly as much room in a V6 to get the equipment in that
you have in a big strait 6. And, you can't turn the crank with an automatic
You're best bet is to get a crankshaft kit with a reground crankshaft and
new bearings, so you won't have to wait for the crankshaft to be ground.
However, if this happens in your old Devco trunk, my father can come to your
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