I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

If it ran well friday and would not start Saturday, that would tend to rule out the Fuel side of things.

Also the MAF, TFI are OK, and probably your injectors are all getting pulsed

It would indicate you have a loose wire or grounded wire.

If a few injectors were fouled it would run rough, and you have to pull the top manifold to get to them, read the codes first.

try the electrical route some more, replace the rotor, cap, and coil. Check the wiring around the coil, and check the battery voltage

Check all vacuume hoses for cracks leaks or fallen off, there is a vacuume canaster passenger side front low in engine bay that has a rubber elbow that expands and gets too loose on 93 and before causes vaccume leak

If battery is below 11.2 you may have battery/altinator problem.

There is one possibility and that is a bad computer. The computer in my '89 LX died at around 1,000 miles so it is possible.

FIRST thing to check is "do you have 12 volts to the injectors" Pull an injector wiring plug and make sure you have 12 volts on at least one side. If you don't, track it down and find out why. You may have 12 volts on both sides. (likely will have) When you crank the engine over, one side should "flash" as the control side is pulled to ground to fire the injector. If it does not pull down check continuity from the injector harness to the ECU, and ECU ground. If both are OK, you've got a bad ECU or possibly a sensor connecton problem, but I can't think of one that would totally kill injection and still provide spark - but I'm not a Ford expert.

I'd be looking first at fuses and relays and fusible links if there is no 12 volts to the injectors.

Check for any corroded conections near the battery (acid fumes). If there are any plugs near the battery open them to have a look. I remember a Ford of some kind where they put the main ground for the ECM right next to the battery and it would corrode inside the plug. Couldn't see it without unplugging it.

You really could check just one injector with the noid light. Not likley some would fire but not others.

Do a compression test to a few cylinders. I know of someone who had a 1991 GMC pickup that had the same problem. Turned out his timing chain snapped & the camshaft wasn't rotating. If your distributor is driven by the cam then that will not be the problem but it doesn't hurt to check compression.

Yes, but unless you check all the sensors and sub-systems and those tests all point back to the computer, save that for dead last - yes it's possible, but it's a vanishingly small chance, "Man Bites Dog" rare. And the computers are rather expensive and not returnable.

The last thing you do before replacing the computer is to unplug the computer wiring harnesses and wiggle when you plug them back in. A little oxidation on one low-level sensor signal pin, or a low-level output line that pulls up a critical relay...

Plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor are normal wear items that need to be done occasionally anyway.

Hook up the Noid Lights and make sure it's pulsing, hook up a pressure gauge and do a Pressure AND Flow test on the fuel pump and pressure regulator - you crack a valve to fill a quart/liter jar in a specified time while watching that the fuel pump is holding at or above the specified pressure. Filling the quart jar doesn't work if the pressure drops to zero in the process.

I think you said it starts for a few seconds on Ether (Starting Fluid), that means it's getting ignition and likely a fuel issue.

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I've seen the module go bad on some of them fords and still let the spark plug fire but would not let the computer know when to fire the injectors.

The only way is do a noid test on the injector harness some part stores have free module test.

need to check the fuel pressure also.

Just plug in a working computer and see if the car starts. Get one from a junk yard.

As was mentioned before, it could be the ECU isn't firing the injectors. IMO, the guy needs to get the car to a Ford dealer and let them diagnose it. There is a reason they have all that fancy equipment sitting around.

another thing it could be is the solenoid, unless the engine turns over some when trying to start. If solenoid is gone, nothing happens, EZ to replace. Next to Coil, main power distribution block. I had a flaky one it would start, and sometimes nothing at all. Solenoid had a loose wire inside it.

Lets see if Joe checks back in and gives us a report of any progress.

The noid light did not flash...

I think I see light at the end of the tunnel...

or is that just some lsd molecules jarred lose?

Joe

... I see myself driving soon!

The noid light did not flash...

I think I see light at the end of the tunnel...

or is that just some lsd molecules jarred lose?

Joe

... I see myself driving soon!

The noid test failed...

Could the Ignition Module go bad, but all of the resistances be within spec?

Joe

HHHEEELLLPPP

The best I can figure, the injectors are connected directly to the PCM...

Does that mean the PCM is bad?

From above...

Since the non-code reader code reading thing did not work (see above), I bought a code reader and I am about to try it. Since the non-code reader code reading thing did not work, I am not confident the code reader will work.

Here goes...

Joe

John,

If my car won't start, how would I check the timing?

Joe

I don't mean to be rude but if you don't know how to check the timing then you need to take the car to a garage and let them figure this out. Right now you are just playing "whack a mole".

Michael,

Can you check the timing on your car when it won't start???

You must be friggin' super-mechanic.

Joe

You really need to take it to a real mechanic Joe. Here I'll give you a clue, because you Joe, are obviously NOT even a friggin half-assed-mechanic. If you were going to take that distributor out and install a new distributor, HOW THE HELL would you set the initial ignition timing before you started the engine?

First, the timing doesn't have to be perfect to spec in order for the engine to run. Second, the posts you have made here show you have little knowledge about Fox Mustangs. Third, tell me how you would set the timing if you installed a new distributor? If the timing is off so far that the car won't start then either you loosened the distributor, gave it a good twist and/or failed to tighten it down or there is a catastrophic failure in the distributor, timing chain/gears and/or the cam drive gear. I would guess that you aren't qualified to perform any of these potential repairs or even make an accurate diagnosis.

Do the damn car, and us, a favor and take to it a qualified mechanic. None of us here have a psychic ability to guide you in how to fix it. Or just let the car sit in your garage but don't whine to us about it.