I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

Biggus,

Was I out of line in my response to "My Name Is Nobody"? Just in case I was, rather than allow my Italian temper to move me further down a road I don't want to go, instead of replying to Mr. Johnson, I am simply hoping he can find it in himself to hit the [DELETE] key rather than read any more of my posts.

Thanks, again, for your assistance on this project!

Joe

Does it have 12 volts to the injectors?

have you checked fuses?

On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 21:34:41 -0800 (PST), Joe wrote:

Joe, I am not going to go into a lot here to cause more confusion. You indicated you have spark at the plugs. We have no idea if that spark is timed close enough for the engine to run but, since you said it would run with starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body when cranking, you should for now assume the ignition system is functional. Keep in mind that the EEC-IV ignition system is not entirely dependant on the vehicle even having a functional PCM. If you do not know how to chack basic timing while cranking the engine with a timing light, you will will just have to trust me that it can be done with a timing light. Use a piece of chalk to mark the damper for good visibility and you will have to look very closely while checking. Also, your spark needs to be a bright blue capable of bridging a 1/2" (13mm) gap to run that engine or most any other EEC-IV system. Starting fluid can be ignited much more easily than the lean mixture of gasoline the car is designed to start and run on. You timing should be no more than 15 deg from specifications. If it is, you must find out why. If the distributor is still tight and has not moved, you may have a failed timing chain. Most of the failed timing chains I have ever replaced were in engineds that were running "well" when stopped and would not restart. This can be verified by suddenly drastic sbhange in ignition timing and using a dial indicator and degree wheel to check valve timing. A compression test showing all cylinders uniformly low will also be an indication.

You have said there is no activation of the noid light (s) when installed on the injectors. That does tell us they are not being pulsed and will not provide fuel. The 12v to the injectors is regulated and supplied by the PCM. The PCM controls the injectors by switching the ground. If this is not happening, it is an indication the PCM may be bad - they do not often fail.

You indicate the fault light lit dimly if at all instead of bright very defined blinks. If you followed the instructions to the letter and could not get a readout, this is an indication the PCM is not working properly. Even when expensive diagnostic equipment cannot get a response, this method usually works if the PCM is functional at any level. Before the PCM is condemned, you need to ascertain the power supply to the PCM. Make sure you check the EEV-IV relay.

Lastly, have you checked the Inertia kill switch? If not, find it and push the reset firmly a couple of times. The one in my CV tripped a few months back. We came home and everyone got out. Next morning, it cranked like always but, would not start. Engine had ignition and no fuel. Without thinking it thru, I called fro a new fuel pump even though it had pressure. Before leaving, I remembered the inertia switch and pushed the reset a couple of times. It fired right up and hasn't missed a beat since.

As it turns out, the inertia switch does not kill the ignition system at all just the fuel side. It won't cost you anything to double check it. Mine had to be pushed very firmly to reset.

Lugnut

Thanks!

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Michael,

As you already know, you were right about the timing and I was wrong.

Sorry for my smart-ass comment.

... and thanks for your previous help.

Joe

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Sorry if I was rude. I wasn't trying to be. Sometimes there just comes a point where having a mechanic involved makes sense to get the problem fixed. Many times this route is less expensive since you won't waste money on buying parts that were never needed in the first place. There are so many potential causes of your problem that we may not be able to point you to the right one. We have guided you to the ones that are obvious and easy to diagnose and it looks like there is something wrong that needs a professional to pinpoint it.

As cars get more complicated through the use of electronics it is harder to diagnose problems. While the Fox Mustang has a lot of old school design employed it does have a certain level of electronic control that makes diagnosis of some repairs very difficult without more sophisticated equipment or in depth knowledge of the car's systems. My comments were only meant to give you good advice based on my own personal experienced of owning a Fox Mustang continuously since 1987 and from heavily modifying it over the years.

Still have not heard if he has 12 volts to the injectors. Without that, he doesn't stand a chance. He can check that with a standard 12 volt test light to ground.

The other test light check is to put the test light from batt pos to the "ground" side of the injectors and crank the engine. If the light flashes the ECU is triggering the injectors. If he has no 12 volts and has a trigger, it will be a connection, fuse, or relay. If he has no

12 volts AND no trigger it will be one of those common to both the injector circuit and the PCM. If he has no 12 volts and has a trigger it will be one specific to the injector power only.

distributor, or distributor cap ?

what did you set it to? It won't save any gas milage.

all this dosen't matter because you said it was running OK a week ago.

Your story is morfing.

but your car ran fine a week or so ago, right? swap out computer, right?

take it to a shop, you are getting too emotional with your old bucket of bolts that won't start now because it *Hates* you. (unless you find the problem)

TFI - If testing the 6 resistances called for in Chilton's is conclusive, then yes, the TFI is OK since all of the resistances were in spec.

Injectors - I tested one injector connection with a noid tester and it did not flash, but I also checked the voltage at the connector... one side had 12V and the other side had 0V.

Given this additional information, would you still focus on a loose wire or a grounded wire or look somewhere else?

I could not pull any codes with my OBD1 code reader. It simply never entered test mode.

I have not replaced the rotor, cap or coil... perhaps I should check the coil, at least.

Wiring seems fine; battery is in good shape.

Done, everything seems to be in good order.

Battery reads 12.9; that said, after trying to run the code tester, the voltage had dropped, but I was able to recharge the battery at 2A in a matter of minutes.

Thanks for your encouragement!

Joe

Michael,

When you said...

You meant the PCM, right?

Thanks!

Joe

Clare,

You are right on target...

I tested one injector connector with a noid light and did not get a flash.

I also checked the voltage and had 12V on one side and 0V on the other.

Next on my list of things to do is (i) test the coil, and (2) check the ECU (>>> a.k.a. ECM, right?

Done, everything seems in order.

Done, noid light tester does not flash; one side of connector has 12V and the other side has 0V.

Any thoughts on where to go from here???

Thanks!

Joe

No pulse, but 12V on one side and 0V on the other side.

Pressure is 40 psi and it holds well; although I have not yet done a flow test yet.

Given the lack of pulse and voltage readings above, any suggestions?

Thanks!

Joe

Module... I checked the resistances and they are in spec.

Noid Test... No pulse.

Pressure Test... In spec.

Any suggestion where I should look next?

Thanks!

Joe

Michael,

When you said...

You were referring to a PCM, right?

Thanks!

Joe

It runs for a few seconds when shot with starter fluid...

Can I skip the solenoid?

Thanks!

Joe

I checked one of the injector connectors and had 12V on one side and

0V on the other.

Specifically which fuses should I check?

Thanks!

Joe

Lugnut,

I plan to pursue each of your recommendations.

FYI: Following is a list of other things folks in this NG suggested I pursue that I have not yet pursued, but plan to in the following order. (Any comments or advice from you or anyone else would be greatly appreciated)...

1. Timing
2. PCM Ground.
3. ECM Ground.
4. Fuses (Although I wish I knew which ones specifically they meant.)
5. Relays (Although I wish I knew which ones specifically they meant; e.g. Fuel Pump Relay and/or WOT Cut-off Relay and/or Others.)
6. Fusible Links (Although I wish I knew which ones specifically they meant; e.g., D behind the PCM and/or Others.)
7. Coil.
8. PCM Swap

fromwww.fordfuelinjection.com,

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Michael,

You certainly do not need to apologize. I started the name-calling and it was absolutely uncalled for.

Thanks, again, for your help and encouragement.

Joe