Check for any corroded conections near the battery (acid fumes). If there
are any plugs near the battery open them to have a look. I remember a Ford
of some kind where they put the main ground for the ECM right next to the
battery and it would corrode inside the plug. Couldn't see it without
You really could check just one injector with the noid light. Not likley
some would fire but not others.
I was talking about the injector fuse(s). But they are good if you have 12v
on one side. You should always check ALL the fuses.
Try pulling out the spout connector. (It's been a while but I think it will
be a yellow wire from the dist. could be a little shorting block in a
connector or a in line type connector,the one to check timing with) with
this unplugged see if it runs. If it does, IIRC it points to the module
being bad (or a bad connection of coarse) ps. checking for a pulse with a
regular 12v test light can be tough because the pulse is so fast. It is
easier on sequencial FI but I really don't know off hand what yours is. If
your not using a noid light look VERY closely at the bulb when cranking. I
know there is at least one if not more Ford experts on alt.autos.ford I
would start over with:
1.year, make, model
2.engine size, FI type
3.cranks but won't start
4.has spark (will run on starting fluid)
5.has fuel pressure (40 psi)
6.has no injector pulse.
7does the check engine light seem to work correctly? (on bright with key on,
goes out after a few seconds) post that.....
8.checked all the freakin fuses with a test light(?)
ping Jim Warman (I think he is a Ford tech on alt.autos.ford
Your post has turned into a cluster fuck, too many people replying without
knowing the full story....
You really need to take it to a real mechanic Joe.
Here I'll give you a clue, because you Joe, are obviously NOT even a friggin
half-assed-mechanic. If you were going to take that distributor out and
install a new distributor, HOW THE HELL would you set the initial ignition
timing before you started the engine?
Who said ANYTHING about installing a NEW distributor?
Sure, I removed my old distributor, in order to check the TFI module,
but I first put the no. 1 piston on top dead center, marked the
position of the no. 1 tower, marked the position of the rotor, and
marked the distributor body and the block so it would all go back in
exactly the way it came out.
If I did anything wrong when removing the distributor or if I missed
something when removing the distributor, please, please, please let me
That said, about 8 years ago, I did advance the timing some to get a
few more hp, but when I replaced my distributor because of a crack in
it, I also returned the timing to the OEM spec to get a little better
gas mileage. I believe I followed the exact same procedure described
above without any problems.
Again, if I did anything wrong or if I overlooked anything when
removing and replacing the distributor, I would appreciate knowing
what it was.
Here, I have 40 psi at the Schrader, according to my spark tester, I
am getting a spark, the TFI module tests ok, well at least all of the
resistances are within spec, I assume this means the TFI module is ok,
and my noid light tester confirms that I am not getting any power to
the injectors. So...
Where am I? Well, I am trying to figure out which relay or fuse or
connector or unit/module, could be the culprit regarding the injectors
getting no signal. I swapped my fuel pump relay and WOT cut-off
relay; that did not help. Now, I think, I need to check the
connection to ground for the injectors and possibly the condition of
the PCM and ECM, Would you agree, or do you think I should be looking
at something else? (The wiring diagrams do not indicate any fuses
between the PCM and the injectors, so I am at a loss at where else to
look for a possible fuse problem... no, let me take that back, fuse
link D sits "behind" the PCM, so that is on my list of things to find
and check on.)
If you have any helpful suggestions or constructive advice, I would be
delighted to here it, but I haven't needed a mechanic to do my tune-
ups, brake and clutch jobs, to replace my clutch cable and quadrant,
to replace the OEM air filter with a K&N system, to replace and update
my A/C (except for evacuating the freon), to replace my shocks and
struts, or to fix my convertible top, and I will be damned if 2
naysayers are going to --- I forgot, to replace some balls and joints
and some other armature thing that escapes me right now --- and I will
be damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me --- I also forgot,
to replace my alternator, thermostat and water pump --- and I will be
damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me I can not figure my way
through this! So, like I say to my 9 year old son, if you do not have
anything nice to say, keep your FCKNG mouth shut... OK, OK, when
speaking to my 9 year old, I end with, ... then say nothing, but I
think you get my point, uh?
Thanks in advance for your helpful advice or for saying nothing.
First, the timing doesn't have to be perfect to spec in order for the
engine to run. Second, the posts you have made here show you have
little knowledge about Fox Mustangs. Third, tell me how you would set
the timing if you installed a new distributor? If the timing is off so
far that the car won't start then either you loosened the distributor,
gave it a good twist and/or failed to tighten it down or there is a
catastrophic failure in the distributor, timing chain/gears and/or the
cam drive gear. I would guess that you aren't qualified to perform any
of these potential repairs or even make an accurate diagnosis.
Do the damn car, and us, a favor and take to it a qualified mechanic.
None of us here have a psychic ability to guide you in how to fix it.
Or just let the car sit in your garage but don't whine to us about it.
Sorry if I was rude. I wasn't trying to be. Sometimes there just comes
a point where having a mechanic involved makes sense to get the problem
fixed. Many times this route is less expensive since you won't waste
money on buying parts that were never needed in the first place. There
are so many potential causes of your problem that we may not be able to
point you to the right one. We have guided you to the ones that are
obvious and easy to diagnose and it looks like there is something wrong
that needs a professional to pinpoint it.
As cars get more complicated through the use of electronics it is harder
to diagnose problems. While the Fox Mustang has a lot of old school
design employed it does have a certain level of electronic control that
makes diagnosis of some repairs very difficult without more
sophisticated equipment or in depth knowledge of the car's systems. My
comments were only meant to give you good advice based on my own
personal experienced of owning a Fox Mustang continuously since 1987 and
from heavily modifying it over the years.
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