Ignition beeper problem

On my 95 Escort, when I take out the key and with lights off, the beeper still sounds when the door is opened. Three independent ASE service places have worked on it and two different Ford dealers have replaced the ignition switch. Each time it is fixed for about two or three days and then it starts beeping again when it shouldn't be beeping. The last time I took it back to the Ford dealer after they put in a new ignition switch, they sprayed the new switch with graphite which of course did nothing to solve the problem. I would think it shouldn't be rocket science for a Ford dealer or ASE service center to replace an ignition switch correctly. I now have over $600 into a stupid switch. Does Ford have any qualified technicians who know how to replace an ignition switch?

Bob

Reply to
RobertM
Loading thread data ...

Are you SURE it was the ignition switch they replaced?

Interesting if that's the case...

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Well, maybe none of them replaced anything, but I have two receipts from Ford dealers that indicate "ignition switch replacement" and I was billed for a new switch and labor each time. I'll agree, a receipt wouldn't necessarily mean any work was actually done, which may be the reason it still doesn't work right. It has been my experience that dealers aren't any more honest than the ASE mechanics I've been to. It's a nasty world out there.

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Yep, push in on the ignition switch and it'll stop beeping but only while I'm pressing against it. Sometimes I can push in on the switch and remove the key very slowly and have it not beep for about 10 seconds or so, but then it moves out a little less than an eighth of an inch and the beeper starts. Seems to be spring loaded. Another mechanic who hasn't worked on it said they probably didn't put the ground wire in correctly and it's shorting to the case. He said it's tricky. Perhaps, but for $200 isn't this what Ford mechanics are trained to do?

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

first, the chime has nothing to do with the ignition switch. the chime is part of the key cylinder assembly. if the chime does not stop when the key is removed, the plunger in the key cylinder needs to be adjusted.

Reply to
Tom

A total of 5 mechanics have looked at and listened to this problem, charged me for switch replacement and none of them could adjust a plunger. Obviously I've been cheated. The question now is, who knows how to adjust the plunger? Should I have been going to a locksmith instead of to a Ford mechanic?

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

Is this something that I could easily adjust? I'm handy and have done work on cars for years but not familiar with the key cylinder/switch assembly.

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

i am not sure about how to do it on your car, but on all the ones i have done, you need to remove the steering wheel to access the area that the key in tumbler switch is located.

Reply to
Tom

OK, so a mechanic is best. I'd bet none of the repair people ever removed the steering wheel. With the air bag and all, I don't want to mess with it myself. Thanks, Bob

Reply to
RobertM

??????

I dont think so. You have to remove some secured housings, IIRC, which needs more than common tools. But not necessarily the wheel.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

well all of the ones i have done were on ford trucks and vans, chevy trucks, and only 3 chevy cars. i am not saure on how to do ford cars.

Reply to
Tom

This sounds more like a failure of the chime switch which used to be a part of the ignition tumbler cylinder assembly the key goes in instead of the actual ignition switch. Now, I admit I haven't looked inside a steering column for a few years, but the actual ignition switch used to be a bit farther down the column and was operated by a lever that was connected to the key assembly. Different wires for the chime thingie.

Bob, have you tried different keys? Maybe the key is loose enough in the lock cylinder to allow the chime to switch on (yep, it's a long shot...)

Good Luck!

PoD

Reply to
Paul of Dayon

Hey, now there's an idea and it might be cheap. I'm going to the local locksmith and have him cut a key that's a little longer on the end and see what happens. thanks.

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

Oh, wait a minute. No that won't work, it chimes with the key out so it doesn't matter if the key is worn or not because the key isn't in the lock.

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

The last time I needed a new tumbler, my local parts discount place had them. It was a fairly quick replacement, I just had to remove the steering column cover - a couple of screws. It probably wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery and wait a bit - no sense tickling an air bag, even tho you shouldn't be close to it.

I hope it works!

PoD

Reply to
Paul of Dayon

Has anybody considered this might be a fault of the Generic Electronic Module? I'm a little late coming into the thread.

Reply to
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
95 is getting a bit long in the tooth for me to have recent knowledge... Currently, the "key in sense" is a small "brush" that snaps into a recess in the lock cylinder housing. The little plastic retainer that holds this brush in place is quite easily damaged and many "techs" will try all manner of bitch-fixing... and there is nothing that works....

Now, there is good news but there is also bad news.... once again, this is if my recalling that this brush is the same as current models is correct... There is a replacement brush and pigtail assembly available.... unfortunately, it is not listed across all applications that it will work for. The only other way to get this brush is to purchase steering column harness.... probably not an investment most would want to put into a ten year old economy car.

Leaves us with one of three options.... disconnect the offending device (at the ignition lock cylinder).... it takes a complete idiot to not realize that he's left the keys i the ignition..... Find a sharp partsman that can find the replacement brush assembly in the catalogue..... Or wait for this old codger to remember to ask the partsmonger at work for the number (sadly, this is likely the least dependable of the three methods - recently took over as shop foreman.... way too busy, anyway... and couldn't remember anything even before the extra duties...).

Reply to
Jim Warman

Maybe you should stick with 1 dealer/tech instead 5 different ones that start with the same basic check and replace the obvious.

If you are not satisfied with your repair, bring it back, talk to a manager, thats why you have warranty on the repair.

And take my word for it, if you have a attitude like your showing here, do you think they will go the extra mile to help you with YOUR problem

Haveyou ever diagnosed a intermittent problem, like a wire rubbing to ground and it stops doing it after the first speed bump.

Its not always that easy, be patient and return the car.

Reply to
JohanB

You make too many assumptions without knowing anything about the situation. The last time I attempted to have it repaired, I was on a trip 600 miles from here. The timing belt let go so I told the Ford dealer to fix the chime while he had the car in there for the timing belt. Now you expect me to drive 600 miles back there for service. I don't think so. The dealer before that was 1000 miles from here, two days before the company relocated me and now you say I should drive 1000 miles for service and you say I have an attitude because I won't drive halfway across the country to return to their service department. If you don't know the facts you shouldn't offer useless advice.

Bob

Reply to
RobertM

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.