I have no experience with using Carb Cleaner first-hand, and I am NOT sure
what effect it would have...I AM Pretty sure it would mess up the TPS if
But I know that EVERYONE says DONT USE CARB CLEANER on throttle bodies!
AS you are posting from Google, too bad you didnt search on it FIRST.
Dunno, I think it's all up to the upkeep. My 68 F-250 went 170k on
it's first engine, and it was abused like a lost stepchild in it's
later years. "I got it near the end of the engines life" It's still
got the original gear box and rear end.
I've got a rebuilt engine in it with about 3100 miles on it. With me
taking care of this new engine from day one, I fully expect to get
200k if I keep it that long, and the rebuilder didn't chinch out on
his part. It's running good so far. All my cars last a long time. No
matter what brand or age. I keep them up, and I don't hot rod them.
That 68 truck could easily go another 35 years no sweat at all. It's
like a tank being a 3/4 ton, and quite reliable too. The only problem
is every once in a while , weird little parts will break, and they are
getting harder to find. IE: I had to replace my brake pedal assbly a
while back. Not many junk yards have that old stuff anymore. But I did
get lucky and find one. And he had three to pick from...You do have to
do maintenance more often on the old vehicles. That goes with the
territory...I do get to skip those pesky smog checks, being it's over
25 years old. :) MK
firstname.lastname@example.org (River Run) wrote in message
If you have a car that is really carboned up bad, the store cleaners
won't usually get it all in one shot. Not strong enough for a bad
case. If this started after you started the injector cleaner, it's
quite possible that you are severely carboned up, and the cleaner is
clogging the injectors. It's slowly cutting the crud, but it gums the
injector tips as the gunk cools. "My theory anyway.." It's also
possible you may be having intake valve problems due to the carbon.
The cleaners you buy at the store work in general, but you have to use
the right method.
#1...Most of the deposits on the injectors are caused by additives
gumming up during hot soak periods. This is when you cut the engine
off, and it sits when hot. The cleaners work in the same way. They
only do any good during hot soaks. They do very little if anything
when actually driving the car. So to take full advantage of the stuff,
you have to get the car hot, and then let it sit, over and over and
over again. I had to do this on a 92 camry last summer. But in my
case, I helped it along. I ran a carb cleaner/injector cleaner/ATF mix
straight into the throttle body vacuum port before shutting it down to
heat soak. This helped soak the carbon on the intake valves. It took
nearly a week to finally get it clean. That car was BAD. Carbon was
snowconed behind the valves. If you have a real bad case, it's much
faster to use solvent and quickly clean the injectors. Even better,
find a shop with a "Motorvac" machine. Carbon is a real PIA on these
new EFI cars for some reason. BTW, if you can finally get it clean, I
do recommend using cleaner every few tanks or so. Also, try to stick
to good gas. Preferably chevron as it has some techron in it. MK
The throttle positioning sensor I never went near. It's on the
outside of the throttle body.
I have heard this too. See below.
I got this info from a factory trained technician. He has been
repairing autos for over 25 years. He also teaches students and they
work on these vans all the time. In fact, when I was talking with
him, they had an Aerostar in the shop and it was undergoing the same
proceedure, as well as a tune up.
Thanks for your help. Just going to read your next post.
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