PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like the MAF or TPS. Does it set any codes (check engine light on)?

Check for leaks in the rubber vacuum hoses, that would cause an erratic idle/stall, but be OK at higher RPM.

Lack of power, or reduced power to one cylinder is unlikely at idle/low revs to cause a stall so we have to assume it is something that affects 2 or more cylinders.

If you have replaced the fuel pump, filter and all injectors then we have to assume that the motor is getting fuel. We are left with a spark at the corrrect time. I guess the spark plugs are OK, what about the plug leads, they could be intermittent at that mileage. Replacement is fairly inexpensive.

Does the motor idle smoothly or is it rough.

Al Moodie

Yes the check engine light came on. They checked all of the codes. The 02 sensor came up and they replaced that again. Cleaned the throttle too. After having it back for a day, it died 4 times yesterday. They have not said anything about MAF or TPS ( what are those by the way???)

once it dies it does run rough with trying to start it. Once you get it started it starts to run smooth. The spark plugs were also replaced. They spent 5 hours on it over the weekend and the only thing they came up with was the 02 sensor and cleaned the throttle. But obviously that didnt do much considering it died 4 times after getting the car back from them... i am just really frustrated... you would think by taking it to the mechanic and spending the amount of money that we have that they wouldve fixed it... anymore suggestions??? thanks again for all of your help...it is much apppreicated!

MAF= Mass Air Flow sensor TPS= Throttle Position Sensor

My 87 max does the same thing your max does, come to find out, it was a bad Mass Air Flow sensor( common problem among maximas). The MAF finally died last night, so now I have to get a new one.

maxima

how much did it cost to change the MAF? Can you only get it at a dealership? thanks again for all of your help!

I would not look into the maf or tps sensors at idle. Have them check the EGR valve. EGR exhaust gas recirculation. If this one sticks open, idle will be low and the car will die as you describe. At highway speeds, the car will be fine.

Good luck,

Alex.

teetaw10 wrote:

By the way, do not go changing parts because someone thinks they are bad, most parts can be tested and you will have a positive diagnostic before spending your bucks.

Last week a friend took his car to the mechanic, $400 later, after replacing the fuel pump (having taken the fuel tank off), the mechanic found that the car still did not run and wanted to replace the ECM. When my friend called me, $16 later (cost of 1 month subscription to online service manual) the problem was found with he crankshaft position sensor. Its plastic bracket (Ford vehicle) had shrunk and moved the sensor off position. A lousy adjustment was all that was needed.

teetaw10 wrote:

Most of these parts are expensive so, as suggested, test, test, test. A FSM (Factory Service Manual) will have procedures for testing components...before replacing them. You already know how expensive that can be.

Check the earthing connection on the MAF first. I remember a post in maxima.org I think that said MAF's are prone to faulty earth connections.

Having said that, when the MAF failed in a Sentra I had, the motor ran just fine up to about 2500 RPM, but refused to rev higher. Aparently a built in safe mode of operation controlled by the ECM when the MAF fails. That does not fit with your symptoms.

Al Moodie.

Low battery voltage which improves at higher RPM (power from the alternator)?

Intermittent electrical connection which clears with higher voltage or current at higher RPM?

Al Moodie.

Thanks for all of the ideas. The mechanic drove it home last night and back to the shop this morning and of course it didnt act up. It always seems to do that when we take it to the mechanic. WEIRD!!! So now they have it hooked to a computer while it runs in idle hoping it will die while it is hooked up. He says it looks like it could be the MAF but he isnt sure yet and if it is it is a 1,000.00 part not including labor. Is it an easy part to put in yourself? AND is 1,000.00 normal for that part??? I told him to check the EGR valve and he said if that was bad it would be throwing codes out...GRRRRRR!! Is it just better to bite the bullet and pay or say goodbye to the car and get another one. I know everyone says that i have plenty of more life in it since it only has 147,000 miles... Help???

You need a new mechanic. $1000 to replace just a MAF??? You can do it yourself if you can replace your air filter. The MAF is just above the air filter in this honey combed mesh screen.

Before going back to the mechanic, try un-plugging the MAF then plugging it back in. If you find that it is bad, get a used one. No need to get new.

Look at this great site on 4th Gen (1995-1999 Maximas) This motorvate guy is awesome. This link show a throttle body cleaning, but you will see the MAF;

CD

Correction: common problem among 2002 and newer Maximas. The 2001 back to 1995 Maximas didn't really experience major MAF issues.

And dude, that's an 87 Maxima. 20 years old. That's 40 in dog years. It's about time the MAF died, lol!

CD

The MAF is easy to replace yourself. They are also pretty cheap if you buy one used or get it from a junkyard. I would not buy a brand new MAF, ever. The price is just exorbitant if you buy it from Nissan.

Dave

Ur probably right cd, but everytime i read about an older maxima, it usually is the MAF thats bad, maybe there all getting old and its time for them to die?, but from what I have heard, that is a common problem

maxima

By the way, a used MAF should go for $50 to $120.

CD

we went ahead and bough a remanucatured MAF from Napa Auto parts and my husband installed it himself. The cost of it was 262.00... Nissan wanted