I have a 95 ford ranger. 2.3 Liter with 134,000 miles on it. It has
always been next thing to trouble free minus the interior lights, radio
speakers, etc but that is not what this post is about.
Over the past 3 monthes I have expierenced some clutch trouble. It
usually happens after having run my truck for at least a half hour. It
doesn't happen often but then again I usually only drive my truck 7
miles to work and then 7 miles home from work. It has never happend
when going to and from work.
What happens is my clutch becomes very hard to push and will not grab
hold. I push the clutch with all my might and release it again and
again and nothing happens. To finally get it going I keep pusing it
and release it quickly. Eventually it will grab and when it grabs it
grabs hard and my wheels squeal:)
The weird thing is it won't do it for a while. And even though I said
I mostly take it to and from work there are longer stretches where it
has been fine. This has actually happened 3 or 4 times but ususally
each time it will last until I let my truck set for a while.
To my non mechanic mind it seems like if my clutch would be going out
it would keep getting worse and worse.
Anybody have an idea what it might be? Thanks
If you have to pump it, you probably have air in the hydraulics, or a bad
clutch master/slave cylinder. You could try bleeding the lines. If this is
the original clutch at 134,000 and it needs any parts - I'd change all of
Top posted, and advise for the opposite of what he said. the problem is.
Its not an issue of he can't get it to release, its an issue of he can't get
it to engage. Two possibilities come to mind. One the pressure plate is
over centering, or two the slave cylinder/throw out bearing abortion ford
used is binding. I would say he's looking at a pressure plate (or cover as
they sometimes call it) slave cylinder/throw out bearing assembly, clutch
disc, and shims for the flywheel (they go between the flywheel and the
crankshaft to make up for material lost when the flywheel is machined) If
the flywheel has severe heat checking, hard spots or cracks, it needs to be
replaced. If the flywheel can be turned, but the starter ring gear shows
wear, the ring gear can be replaced.
It all depends on where you live, my friend. Understand that the
transmission has to be dropped completely. While you're there, the clutch
plate, slave cylinder, etc., all have to be removed. As someone else said,
now's the time to do replace everything between the engine and transmission.
Clutch plate, slave cylinder, maybe flywheel depending on condition, etc.
It's not an extremely technically challenging job, but it can be done wrong
by someone who is careless or ignorant. Find someone reputable to do it. I
live 10 miles from the White House, and everything's expensive here. A job
like yours is one I'd take to a good mechanic near my parents home in WV
because the labor charges are literally half as much.
If it's any consolation, the clutch on my 1997, 2.3, 5 speed, 110k mile
Ranger has acted goofy once or twice too. Thankfully all that was last
summer and it's still going a year later. I know I'll need to do the same
job one of these days tho.
I had this exact (I think) same problem just recently. 1995 Ranger,
4cyl, MT, 35,000mi. I could depress the clutch pedal and when releasing
it it would stick and not come back up. I could press really hard
several times and the clutch pedal would pump up until it was jammed at
the top and could not be pressed in again. The clutch would be
completely disengaged from the transmission, i.e. shift to any gear you
want but it goes nowhere.
I stomped so hard trying to get it to release I broke the plastic rod
connecting the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Course you can't
just replace the rod, needs a whole new master cylinder. I told the
dealer I thought the slave cylinder was binding and it needed to be
replaced also, so I wouldn't have to pay another towing bill when it
failed. They told me they were "experts", it was a problem with the
master cylinder, they had road tested it thoroughly and it was
definitely fixed. $350+
Since I only use the truck every couple of weeks to do garden stuff, 2
months later guess what happened? You guessed it, it failed again with
a heavy load in the back (heavy for me to lift) and it cost another $80+
to get it towed again. Of course since the new master cylinder wasn't
at fault the work warranty didn't cover paying my towing bill. After 15
min of talking with the "service advisor" and "mechanic" who was going
to work on it they decided to discuss the problem with the "lead tech".
The lead tech's comment....of course it's the slave cylinder that's a
common failure mode for the symptoms I described. $600+ later I had a
new improved slave cylinder that was covered with a rubber boot to keep
out the dust. I examined the old part and it looked to me like the open
plastic slave cylinder assy with throw-out bearing got full of dirt and
Bottom line, it's been working fine for a couple of months.
Thanks for reading my story. You need a new "improved" slave cylinder.
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}
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