91 Ranger windshield wipers

: > The wipers on my 91 Ranger pickup bit the dust the other day, and I just : >wanted to ask a quick question before replacing the wiper motor. : > The first to go was the pulse wipers, I had to settle for low or high : >speed. Then they wouldn't turn off anymore for a couple of months, and I : >had to shut down the power at the ignition switch when the wipers reached : >the bottom of their travel in order to turn them off. : > Now they don't work at all! My question is: Is the problem contained : >inside the wiper motor, or is it possible I have a problem at the switch on : >the turn signal arm that could be causing this? : I agree w/ Rackie - that particular switch fails, like, allathetime. Motor dying is much more rare. Your symptoms (loosing momentary on first) match what's happened to me on a coupla occasions.

Dave

I was thinking that myself until tonight, but I'm still not sure at this point. In order to make things as confusing as possible, I unplugged the harness leading to the motor tonight and checked out the logics on the switch with a volt meter. Mine has the four wire harness, apparently some models had three. One of the four wires is black, so I assumed it to be the ground and checked for hydro on the other three wires in various switch positions with the ignition switch in the "on" position. Wipers "off" produced 12V on one wire, "slow speed" produced 12V on another and "high speed" produced 12V on the third. Would anybody know if the always "hot" 12V lead (off position) could be the power supply for the momentary circuit, and the other two power for slow and fast speeds? Since the rotary contacts for the momentary wipers are mounted on the large spur gear inside the wiper motor, is it possible that there might be a normally "hot" lead running to the motor through the harness to supply 12V to these contacts? If this is the case, my switch might be OK. Ain't troubleshooting fun? Thanks for the input so far guys, I wish I didn't lend out my Hayes Ranger manual with all my wiring diagrams to a far away buddy back in the spring. ;-)

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=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0I was thinking that myself until tonight, but I'm still not sure at this point. In order to make things as confusing as possible, I unplugged the harness leading to the motor tonight and checked out the logics on the switch with a volt meter.

Mine has the four wire harness, apparently some models had three.

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0One of the four wires is black, so I assumed it to be the ground and checked for hydro on the other three wires in various switch positions with the ignition switch in the "on" position.

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Wipers "off" produced 12V on one wire,

"slow speed" produced 12V on another and

"high speed" produced 12V on the third.

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Would anybody know if the always "hot" 12V lead (off position) could be the power supply for the momentary circuit, and the other two power for slow and fast speeds?

Since the rotary contacts for the momentary wipers are mounted on the large spur gear inside the wiper motor, is it possible that there might be a normally "hot" lead running to the motor through the harness to supply 12V to these contacts? If this is the case, my switch might be OK.

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Ain't troubleshooting fun? Thanks for the input so far guys, I wish I didn't lend out my Hayes Ranger manual with all my wiring diagrams to a far away buddy back in the spring. ;-)

there's a module down on the steering column support that controls the 'intermittent' function, and the 'low' wire runs thru it

replaced it on my 88 and it works now

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I was thinking that myself until tonight, but I'm still not sure at this point. In order to make things as confusing as possible, I unplugged the harness leading to the motor tonight and checked out the logics on the switch with a volt meter.

Mine has the four wire harness, apparently some models had three.

One of the four wires is black, so I assumed it to be the ground and checked for hydro on the other three wires in various switch positions with the ignition switch in the "on" position.

Wipers "off" produced 12V on one wire,

"slow speed" produced 12V on another and

"high speed" produced 12V on the third.

Would anybody know if the always "hot" 12V lead (off position) could be the power supply for the momentary circuit, and the other two power for slow and fast speeds?

Since the rotary contacts for the momentary wipers are mounted on the large spur gear inside the wiper motor, is it possible that there might be a normally "hot" lead running to the motor through the harness to supply 12V to these contacts? If this is the case, my switch might be OK.

Ain't troubleshooting fun? Thanks for the input so far guys, I wish I didn't lend out my Hayes Ranger manual with all my wiring diagrams to a far away buddy back in the spring. ;-)

Black is ground on my '75. :) A meter will tell you about as quick but "for more sure" than plans will. ;)

The always hot wire is the return to stop wire that gets broken inside the wiper mechanism.

Yeah but. :/ What voltage did the motor have on it while the motor and contacts have a load on them? See? You can have full voltage through a contact because the contact's resistance is much lower than the ~10,000 ohms of the meter. But put a load on it then the ~100 ohm contact is hugh compared to the 1 ohm(?) motor. At that point you read next to no voltage on the motor.

Another way is to check is, for "voltage drop" across a contact while the system is under load. Or "jump" clean over the contacts and wiring connections all at onece and check for voltage at the motor first thing, then if you find it low (ground to positive motor) or high (positive battery to positive motor) then begin fiNguring out where the problem is.

Otherwise it's the motor (or its internal contacts/connections) itself.

The guy with switch problems is your best "guess" so far despite your readings. :/ Sorry but your readings are bogus. :/

Sure enough. :)

I'm just happy as anything that you have a friggin meter instead of just guessing! :) You -can- track the trouble down and -know- what's wrong with a meter.

Swapping parts are for those that don't have meters or know how to use one. Weird thing is it's not that big of a deal to learn and they are cheap to buy. Anyone that wants to learn can learn it for free right here! :) What's cool about that is you know you're getting the straight dope here since there are others eager to make corrections, right? ;)

Alvin in AZ

Ain't troubleshooting fun? Thanks for the input so far guys, I wish I didn't lend out my Hayes Ranger manual with all my wiring diagrams to a far away buddy back in the spring. ;-)

I'm glad you said that, that was the moment when things made total sense. Knowing I was "supposed to" have a hot lead with the switch off convinced me that the switch was probably OK.

I'm happy about that too! Anyhow, I'd like to thank *all* you guys for pitching in, your input was very informative and very much appreciated.