Ok folks, I'm thinkin maybe it's time I started doing these myself, so gonna ask just how difficult is it? I haven't been mechanically intimate with a vechicle for over 30 years, I'm 62 now, and never did do a brake job on anything. I have an 03 Ranger with about 36,000 miles on it so am gonna start by pulling the wheels and check the thickness of the pads. Hopefully they won't need changing yet. I subscribed to AllData DIY and it looks pretty straight forward to change them, assuming the brake disc and hub are still ok and just the pads need replacing.. So is there anything to it? Heck, if I can get ceramic pads from Auto Zone for about $46.00, why pay a dealer 300 to 400 to do it. I just don't want to do something wrong and have it ending up being a danger to me and the wife driving it and costing more in the long run to fix my mistake. Thanks for your help.
Rear should be fine at 36k. If not you have a real problem. Anyway,in my opinion, front disk brake pads are the easiest to replace. Drums are far more complicated.
Make sure you clean and re lubricate all sliding surfaces on the caliper and the caliper bracket. I can't remember if that truck has the long bolts or the "squish pins" to hold the caliper together. If you have to drive those "squish pins" out, I would strongly recommend replacing them as they are not expensive at all and most auto parts stores carry them.
Take your time, and pay attention to how it all came apart. NEVER do both sides at the same time. The other side can be a reference (mirror image) in case you forgot how something came apart.
It is hard to put them back together wrong and not know it. Make sure you pump the pedal a few times when you are done before you drive it anywhere. The first couple of times you press the pedal it will probably go very low but it should pump up after one or two strokes. You should only need to do this one time. If the pedal drops again later on then something is wrong.
If this is your first brake job and you don't know anyone that can double check your work, I would suggest doing the owrk and then having a local mechanic that you trust double check your work for you. Maybe pay them to rotate your tires, they will usually inspect your brakes for free when you have your tires rotated.
If there isn't any problem with pulsation in the brake pedal or other brake problems, a simple brake pad swap is about one of the simplest jobs you can do yourself. I would recommend getting the little tool they sell at almost any parts store called a disc brake caliper tool. It is simply a metal plate about 4 inches long (with a slight curve that mimics the shape of a disc pad) that has a threaded rod through it. This tool is a lifesaver when it comes to getting the calipers to spread apart. You can use a large "C" clamp if you have it but the specialty tool seems to work really well.
This is how I do it, INTENDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
Jack and block the vehicle Remove the wheel and spray the whole area down with brake cleaner Remove the cap on your brake fluid resevoir under the hood Remove the either one or both of the slide bolts holding the caliper in place (varies by auto mfgr) Using the caliper tool or a clamp, force the pads apart enought to allow you to remove or swing away the caliper (if not the swing away type, use heavy guage wire to tie up and out of the way, do NOT let it hang by the brake line as this causes stress on the brake line which can lead to a rupture) Remove the outside pad leaving the old inner one in place. This allows you to push against the old pad surface with the tool/clamp to completely push the piston back. Once it is retracted, it should stay that way. Remove the inner pad and spray cleaner to clear out all the dust. Using medium sandpaper, scuff the surface of the rotor to remove any glazing and then clean rotor of any greasy finger prints, oil, etc... (If rotor is grooved to badly or is worn thinner than spec, it will have to be either turned or replaced.) Clean and relube slide bolts Use the anti-squeal lube and shims as directed/needed and push new inner and outer pads into place Replace disk onto axle and lower caliper into place. Torque slide bolts to manufacturer spec (usually not very tight but snug enough to prevent them from loosening on their own. Press brake pedal a few times to seat pads and make sure they allow the rotor to rotate when released Repeat for other side of axle. If you do one side at a time, you will hopefully not spill any (or much) brake fluid out of the resevoir. If some does spill out, clean with engine cleaner or other degreaser. Refill resevoir to spec. After all is said and done, you can bleed brakes if you feel the need but as long as you don't allow air into the system by loosening a brake line or pumping the pedal with the resevoir dry, you should be fine. Test drive slowly on level pavement until you are sure they are working properly. It may take a half dozen or more pumps on the pedal for it all to tighten back up.
If I left out any steps, I apologize and I am sure someone here will be real quick to correct me. Work slowly on the first one. After that, the others will be a cinch. Also, you probably only need to do the front pads but I always check all four and go ahead and replace the rears while I am at it if they are anywhere close to being worn. Really makes the whole brake system feel much better!
Good Luck Razor
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