Ranger hitches

A folded or bent bumper is one that has been severely overloaded.

There are two weights you need to keep in mind, the tongue weight and the trailer weight. Both are printed on the bumper in the vicinity of the hitch ball.

If you only plan on towing small stuff, you do not need a Class III hitch. If you want a Class III hitch for the stuff you plan on towing, it isn't small stuff.

As for a recommendation, I like Reese and DrawTite. WalMart probably can get them for you if they do not physically stock the one you want. They bolt to the frame rails, and I see no reason you could not install one yourself. WalMart's tire center could probably do it for you.

I've got a 98 with a Reese class III hitch. Picked it (the hitch) up short $ used, but it seems to be a nice unit. I went with the class III not to tow ultra-heavy loads, but so that I could use a bed extender and/or a reciever hitch-style bike rack. It bolts to existing holes, so the install should be a breeze. That said, if all you're going to do is light-duty towing, you should not need anything more than the bumper hitch. Good luck, whatever you decide.

I looked at that, and in my manual, and I can load a trailer ok. I had another guy tell me that the bumpers were not as strong as they should be, per the manual and the printed ratings. The possible use of multiple receivers also appeals.

Around 1500 lbs. is the most I'd tow with it, probably, but I wonder about the transfer of weight at 70 mph damaging the bumper if I had to stop quickly or what-have-you. Do you think it's still unnecessary, given that?

Thanks for the recommendations. If it's a bolt-on then no problem at all for me, *if* it's worth getting one...

Thanks for the input. It seems like the main reason for me should be for multiple receivers, rather than worrying about the advertised ratings being "wrong". I was dubious at that claim, thinking these are very common little work trucks running around all the time towing things, so what benefit would Ford get (aside from not-worth-it parts sales) from printing incorrect ratings about the vehicle?

Thx again Jason

If your load remains under the specifications for tongue and gross weight on the bumper, then I say the bumper is fine.

You can get a Class II hitch instead of Class III, and still get the ability to swap in different receivers. I think a Class III hitch exceeds the capability of your truck, all you need is a Class II, and if you are happy with the ball, then the bumper should be fine. You only need a Class II or Class III if your loading exceeds the spec for the bumper, or you really need the ability to swap in different receivers.

Only you can make that determination. From what I've seen, you don't need to spend the money. Having said that, a Class II or III hitch from WalMart can't be very expensive.

Thanks again, Jeff. I plan to keep the truck for a LONG time (only drive it 6-7k mi/year). I got it for its utility in the first place, opting for the I4 2wd stick for its price and fuel economy. Give me

I appreciate your input. Do you know anything about Quality S brand?

Best, Jason

No, sorry.

If I was looking at two or more hitch systems, I'd have to buy the one that looked the beefyest. Having said that, there is much about metal that can not be seen through the paint and/or chrome plating.

Reese and DrawTite are the brands I see most often. U-Haul also makes a good hitch ...

That said, I'd seriously consider going class III instead of class II. Even if class II is burly enough to exceed the rating on your truck, it does not have the added goodies available. When I was looking, I could not find a bed extender for a class II, nor could I find a class II bicycle hitch-rack with a decent weight rating. The bed extender was a big deal for me, and may be down the road for you as well with your utilitarian needs aforementioned. I've got the short bed, but a bed extender will allow me to move lengthy things (planks, kayaks, etc) a lot easier. It should only set you back an extra few dollars compared to a class II.

The Reese hitches are really burly, I bought mine used and would do it again. You may check craigslist and whatever other bargain hunters you have in your area for a deal, and end up with a used Reese for less than a new no-name knockoff would cost. I'll wager my used Reese is stronger than a brand new "Brand X" wallyworld special.

I have a friend who worked at U-haul for a while, installing hitches was part of the job. They charge assuming that the job will require drilling out the frame and such, and most don't. The ranger with a Reese hitch does not. Taking the U-haul route you should end up with a solid hitch installed properly, but expect to overpay for the hitch and then pay a hundred or two extra for them to install it in 20 minutes. I'd recommend it if you had a Miata, but with a ranger it's too easy of a job to pay that much for.

Best of luck with whatever you do.

Thanks again for your advice. I now know what to get, and why - a Reese Class III. I see Reese and DrawTite on almost every truck I see with an aftermarket hitch.

I would never have known about the problems associated with multiple Class II receivers otherwise. Best to get the one that will allow me the most flexibility. There's also something to be said for having things like this heaver than "needed". I know I'll be able to put the thing on myself, most looks dead simple from the instructions. I just didn't know hitches at all really.

Thanks Dan and Jeff