Rear Main Seal

About 4 hours if you're doing it without a lift.

Spdloader

Flat rate means nothing. No disrespect intended, but I was a Toyota mechanic in the '80s, flat rate paid 5.5hrs on an add-on AC install on a truck, and it could be done in less than 2hrs.

I've done more than my share of Ford rear main seals, the older two piece units, and the newer one piece units, and my 4 hour estimate is very conservative, it can be done faster.

Spdloader

Ambition requirement is your call. The rear seal is a one piece unit that requires the trans and flex plate to be removed. You will need equipment to remove trans. I would make sure the problem is not the pan gasket since that is the usual problem. If it is the pan gasket, you can lift the engine high enough to remove the pan by removing the upper intake manifold. The new style pan gasket is a one piece unit that is metal plate reinforced and should never leak. If you remove the pan, you will need to either remove the trans and drop the exhaust pipe off the manifiolds or, you can cut the crossover pipe just right of center and have it rejoined with a sleeve made and welded back by a muffler shop. This will allow you to completely remove the left half of the exhaust crossover which will give you enough room to remove the pan. Do not cut the crossover pipe if you pull the trans as it won't be necessary.

Even if this does turn out to be the rear seal and the trans has to come out, you are wasting a golden opportunity to go ahead and replace the pan gasket. There are only two kinds of them I have seen at high mileage - them what leak and them what are going to leak.

You may also want to make sure your leak is not coming from the rear of the lower intake where it joins the back of the block or from a rocker cover. The lower intake would be much more in line with what an average DIY'er can easily accomplish. I have done the pan, seal and trans job on two this year. If you do a good job of cleanup and repair, I think the 6.5 hr book time for the rear seal would be very difficult to meet without knowing exactly what you are doing and have all the right tools. For my own vehicles, I have several good jacks including a hydraulic trans jack and tall stands along with good air tools.

BTW, you should replace the engine mounts if you have to lift the engine and check them very closely even if you don't. They tend to fail with age especially if you have done much towing. If you have to replace the mounts, make sure you get the correct mounts. Mounts from 1980 to 1996 will bolt in but, the earlier mounts are harder and transmitt much more engine vibration and noise to the cab as well as being a different height causing driveline alignment problems - learned this the hard way. Use the mounts spec'd for your year even if they are more expensive.

I think we all know that flat rate can be beat, it's just a guide as to how long a job can be expected to take. I could get that seal done in 4 hours but I really doubt that someone doing the job for the first time could. Bob

Agreed.

Spdloader

Flat rate can be beat very easy. The last time I did a rear seal on my F-150, (239,000 miles) I just unbolted the exhaust, pulled the radiator and fan and seperated the trannie and motor and slid it ahead with my motor crane. I put in a fresh clutch and hydraulics to boot. This was a

GOD BLESS THE USA Member of IPCO- International Pest Control Operators Public message board-

Hmmm, most guys just pull the tranny back. I'd also question your statement about "the last time I did a rear seal on my F150". Just how many times have you replaced it? There are a ton of them out there with 200k that don't leak and have NEVER had the rear main replaced. Next time you do the job, slow down a bit and do it right. Bob K

That main was not leaking. The slave cylinder was. But when its apart, its gets a new one. When you puy miles on like I do (min. 50-60 thousand a year) you replace a few parts here and there. When I pulled the engine ahead like that it takes no time at all and saved pulling alot of hardware off. (4-wheel drive) I also flushed the radiator and heater core and installed a new serpintine belt. Down time on my rig is lost money. To avoid problems in the future I'll replace a $8.00 seal when I had the flywheel off to machine it down. This engine has never been opened up since new. My Dad bought it new. Bob

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Besides Bob K, everything I do is done right the first time.

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