Steering dampers, revisited.

Does your van have the "inverted Y" steering? Like the F-series?

Spdloader

Explain what that is and I'll tell you. :-)

Basically it has coil springs and two long arms that attach to the steering knuckels.

There is a long rod that goes from the steering gearbox to the passenger side steering knuckle. At this point the plan is to attach one end of the steering damper under the driver-side bolts that hold the sway bar clamp, and the second end to a clamp-on bracket on the steering rod on the passenger side. There is enough clearance to do it; it's just a matter of finding a damper that will fit. I will need to fab up brackets for both ends, but it would be much easier to have a steering damper with a threaded rod on each end than the pivot bushing thingie (whatever you call it...)

I can post pics if that will help.

--Yan

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The rod from the pitman arm to the passenger side; does it have a tie = rod about halfway down connecting it with the driver-side?

There are universal steering stabilizers available with all the hardware = you need.

Spdloader

I believe so.... I can't picture it cldearly in my head, but I think the driver's side rod connects to the passenger side rod about 1/3 of the way from the pitman arm.... I'll look tonight.

Any manufacturers/sources? I've struck out everywhere....

--Yan

IF it is an inverted y type steering setup, then a stabilizer kit from the same vintage F-series will fit. One end bolts to the passenger side frame, the other to the link from the pitman arm.

Monroe makes 'em, among others. If you have a NAPA close by, I think you can get a kit made by Moog.

What year is your van?

Spdloader

I just re-read your earlier post, I don't know about a 2000 model.

Also, if you have a pulsation in the steering when you hit the brakes, then you need to have the front rotors machined or replaced. The steering stabilizer won't help that.

Spdloader

Well, the front end shimmy comes and goes. It's not related to the brakes being turned; it happens at any time, including right after having the rotors turned and good brake pads installed. And sometimes it shimmies really badly, and other times not at all.

There doesn't seem to be a pattern to it. It doesn't appear to be related to hot/cold brakes, loads, towing, length of time driving, or anything else that I can think of....

So I'm really faced with a choice:

I can try to replace the rotors, or rip out the whole front end and replace it with a 250/350 front end (is such a thing even possible?) or try a $40 stabilizer....

--Yan

How about the front bearings properly adjusted?

Spdloader

Good point.... I guess I can tear the front end down and look at the bearings, repack, turn rotors, and see what else I can find...

--Yan

I do know that the front anti-sway bar was prone to "pop out" of the mounts at the ends after they had some wear on them, but, I don't know if it pertains to your specific year. I've never worked on a 2000 and up Econoline.

Spdloader

Well, I replaced the wimpy stock sway bar with a Helwig bolt-on, so no more sway and no chance of 'popping out'....

:-)

--Yan

Fuzzy here on suspension design on this year/model, but if its still the twin I-Beam set up, check the radius arm bushing on the right side, the exhaust runs close and the heat destroys them. If it is bad two ways to change it, by the book, your going to pull the shock, undo spring perch bolt, remove spring from I-Beam, remove bolt holding right side I-Beam from cross member and then slide everything forward. The easy way is get the correct size grade 8 bolts, flat washers and lock nuts, and the drill the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame the radius arm connects to. Do not just take an air chisel to the rivets, it can cause stress cracks to form around the mounting holes in the frame. Make sure you get the adjustable eccentric bushing kits, it gives a -1 to +1 degree camber adjustment.

as for steering stabilizer, NAPA Moog about best, followed by Rancho, followed by Monroe.

Whitelightning

OK, my van has a twin I-beam, at least per the ford-enthusiast site:

I'll follow up on that. As soon as it quits raining here in the PNW (which may be July the way we're going this year....) How do I tell they're bad? (Assume I am a decent back-yard mechanic, but with no access to a lift or big power tools. All I can muster is a regular floorjack, a hand-drill, and a dremel tool. ;-) )

I suspect that the underlying cause is that the vehicle is close to its rated weight limit. I know the stabilizer is a bandaid but a new vehicle is not in the cards right now. The vehicle is rated at something like 7500# and I guess on a typical day it may be close to

Any suggestions on beefing it up?

--Yan

All three owned by Tenneco, and Whitelightnin' has them in the correct order of quality.

Spdloader

I am with Spdloader on this, as well. A front end shimmy can also be caused by bad shocks, and as you have stated that you continually load the truck to the limit, those factory shocks are probably done. I used to live in the PNW (Everett, Wa) and if you are anywhere near Seattle, you are doing a lot of starting and stopping, and that means that your shocks are tryin to help keep the vehicle stable during those events, and because of all that rain, the roads arent great up there. Oh, and it wont matter about load with bad shocks, cause its the tire pressure that causes the wheels to bounce/shimmy after you hit a bump. Even a small bump can cause this, but since its intermittent, it sounds like its only happening when you hit big bumps. I have always been told to stand on your bumper and bounce the vehicle, then jump off. If it bounces more than 3 times after you jump off, the shocks are bad. Personally, I use that test in conjunction with the leak test. If I see what appears to be an oil leak around the rod on the shock, then I replace immediately.

Thanks! I called them; they don't show one on their website but they carry them...

I have one on order....