Trapped IN the middle of nowhere with Transmission leak and hood release broken

I am in serious trouble right now...I am in the middle of NH at a friends house in the middle of the woods witha '92 F-150 Pickup automatic custom w/towing pakage. The truck has been through 2 transmissions and transmission line leaks before..Its beena family vehicle since 92. I'm 20 and know this car but not repair wise...I beg of anyone who can help me by telling me how I can get the hood open and seal the transmission leak. Now the hood is what was the last problem to happen. After my own repairs i closed the hood and then fired it up...found another leak. Turned off the truck went to open the hood and the hood release handel came flying out along with 4' of cabling. I am guessing that the hood cable release is not broken. Hence Question 1 1) How cn i ge thte hood open with a broken hood release handel inside the car. Mix of Flat head screw drivers?

Next problem. The truck like I said has been through 2 transmissions and has lines leak. I am literally out in the middle of no where..all i have at my disposal are a few power tools, welding equipment, steel epoxy and apaer towles. There have been 2 leaks today. the first i solved by replacing a tubing that was connecting the outtake line from the fronbt transmission line, simple releasing of the fasteners and then pulling off the tubing and reattaching the new tube with fasteners. Job one done. Tested to see if it would hold, so turned on the truck..it held BUT the other side. the input line was spewing all over the place. I noticed it was just a the bolt at the top entrance section. Not more then a 1/8" was a small rusted divit that was spewing out the transmission fluid. I turned off the truck and started dryin the area...finally the coolant stop bleeding and dried...I sanded down the area and dried it again...had some quick steel expoxy, JB weld stuff...thought it could be a quick fix and hold. Already i knew there was not a chance a tube could cover the hole if i hacked off the line to attach it to AND cover the hole. So i tried the epoxy and then let it sit for an hour and a half. tested it. The truck began to leak AGAIN! it was flowing right over the top of the expoxy. So i kicked the bumper. I am out in the middle of NH with hardly any moey 'cept on credit, but more then 40 min from any gas station or garage. Clled my mechanic friend he told me to use a solvent spray that would dry the area free of film and oil. like brake fluid cleaner. Well all we had was electrical contact cleaner. Would do the same thing. So we clenaed and dried the line. Reapplied the epoxy and waited. #hrs this time...not more then 2 hrs ago i did all this. I started the turck hours later....it was fine...then leaked in 2 min and didnt stop! so turned off the truck and that was that...BUT it gets better. After i replaced the grill and closed that hood cause it was hailing/slash raining (even still now it is) i wanted to add more fluid for the transmission in case i really had to leave, i'd just add it as i drove along, stop now and then. Pulled on the handel for hood release and

*POOFS* out comes 4' of cabling! I am so wicked pissed at my truck. I have been stranded since 10am this morning. now its almost april 2d! I have school monday and work mon night....3 hrs from here! Sorry its asl ong read but I needed to put it all out there. If anyone can help me at all plz help! I have scowured the entire net looking for sheamatics and diagrams and my head hurts cause there is nothing. I cant even find a pic of the hood release. Plz HELP ME! aim would be the fastest thing to catch me on...look for anecwolf thats my aim s/n. Thanks for reading and any input.
Reply to
sgt.curtis
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Take a pair of vice grips and crimp the lines shut. Crimp them tight and fold them over if you have to to keep them from leaking. They only go to the cooler. Driving the truck in the cold air there is enough air flow to prevent trans overheating and to get you home in an emergency like this. When you get back to "civilization", you can replace the lines properly. They need it anyway.

Then, throw away the JBWeld.

You should be able to pry the hood release from below, going up under the bumper if you have small arms and hands, but if you crimp the lines, you won't need to.

Spdloader

Reply to
Spdloader

I would not bank on this at all because cooling is very important to a automatic. The bigger the engine and bigger the vehicle the more important it is. You would be safe to go 20 or 30 minutes if you drove easy but i would not travel farther than that or at high speed.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

It CAN be done SnoJob.

That's all the time I'm wasting on you.

Spdloader

Reply to
Spdloader

Going for troll hood too? GM learned the hard way that you are full of "S" When they first came out with limited deployment of the 700R4 in

81 they mostly by passed the external cooler in OD (very little oil went to cooler in this mode) They failed by the boat loads in use and GM restored the cooling flow in 83 before they phased out the THM350 they were replacing with the 700R4. People like you are kind dangerous because you are not going to buy this guy a new tranny if he screwes it up with you back yard mech advise. The torque converter can make a lot of heat when stalling and most like yourself do no even begin to understand this.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Your help is all invaluable...but i have about 9 quarts of trans fluid in case this would happen, if i can get the hood open i can continuosly pour fluid in when need be. What do people think a bout a quick sodering or something like wise? We havewelding availible to us, dont get paid till tm night...have work tonight blah blah....life sucks. But any idea how well a soder would do?...i mean i have at least 70 miles to go to get to my mechanic and 40 miles to get to civilization. I need this hood opened.

Reply to
sgt.curtis

On my 93 , you can see the bottom of the release mech. through the grill. At the bottom of the wide ' v ' visable through the grill is where the release cable attaches to the release lever with the whole cable coming in from the upper right of what you can see . Unfortunately it's behind formed plate so you can't see it although it is open back there. Maybe a mirror and flashlight and you can see the lever that needs pulled to pop the hood. Pulling that lever is made easier if someone else pushes down on the hood till you get that lever pulled all the way... Another possibilty is to remove the latch mech. from the crossmember. There are two bolts holding latch to a backer plate and the two bolts attaching the backer plate to the crossmember. The left most bolt and the one most easily seen is one for the backer plate ( not one of the two for the latch ) just to the right of that bolt is the left mounting bolt for the latch itself . Removing that bolt and the other bolt for the latch would allow you to open the hood.

Reply to
samstone

First on the hood, Can you remove the grill to gain access to hood release? On the leak, you might try getting some fuel line rated hose and cut out the bad part of cooling line and splice tubing together with some hose and clamps to restore flow.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

That worked! I was able to find the black stopper in the back of the housing of the release and unlock the hood, then i simply pulled the normal lever to release the hood and it opened. Now all i have to do is travel 50 miles to my mechanic and have them look at it. I have 9 quarts of fluid stil to use as i feel it getting rough, but i can get home. Thank you guys so much for all your valuable advice. You guys got me out of the middle of now where. Thnk you! Curtis Sargent (Anec Wolf)

Reply to
sgt.curtis

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